Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tom Rogers & Jeff Elphinston 1972, FFA: Jeff Thomas & Chet Sutterlin 3/77
Page Views: 2,726 total, 19/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Pack Animal Direct offers a harder option for Pack Animal pitch 1 (Pack Animal is a 2-pitch 5.8 trad line on the Four Horsemen). It is listed in the guidebook as a separate route.

Look for a 30-foot, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof (it's on the face just right of Headless Horseman). Dihedral starts about 10 feet above ground.

Scramble up to base of dihedral (c. 5.7). Stem your way up the clean corner. There's an intermittent crack in corner (improves a bit higher up) but it's THIN (tips for most). At top, step left just below the roof to a bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of Pack Animal. The route felt hard for the grade.


Many small nuts. Small cams up to #0.75 Camalot (1 spot for this one).


geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
the roof on this now has 5 or 6 beautiful swallows nests, which don't affect the route, just don't touch them. Mar 14, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Fun, technical stemming and fingering up a well protected (by small nuts) corner. Clip the bolt off right with a long sling if you don't want a bit of a run to the first piece. Like the description mentions above, it is pretty much all small nuts and one 0.75 Camalot. The second pitch was good fun 5.8 stemming as well. A 70m rope made it to the ground. Oct 22, 2006
Bryson Slothower
Bryson Slothower  
This route feels hard for the grade to me too. A fun option is to continue to the top of Pack Animal in one long pitch. May 8, 2006