PRINT: Rock Climb Taiwan On, Smith Rock

Taiwan On

5.10c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 155 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (i) The Fourth Horseman

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Taiwan On tackles the arete just left of Pack Animal Direct. Viewed from the base of Pack Animal and nearby routes the arete is dramatic feature, and looks incredibly sharp. The climb starts up the vertical face on the right side of the arete. Swing around to the left side when you run out of features, then back to the right side a little higher. Transitioning from one side to the other can be tricky. The crux comes near the top of the face, connecting crimps to pull onto the slab above the face before an easier run to the anchor.

Protection

Vertical bolts connected by one chain with one rap ring on the lower bolt for anchor. Anchor bolts replace by the HDCA on 2023-1-29.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kathryn

through the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

A nice tick if in the neighborhood, but nothing spectacular. Apr 18, 2007

BSwett
Bend, Or.

Tricky freakin' climb. Apr 13, 2011

Phildlm

I found this to be one of the better 10c's in the park. Watts gives it 3 stars and I'd agree. Fun, good location, easily accessible, unique route on an arete. Oct 14, 2016

Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR

Climbing on the left side of the arete for the first 3 bolts is awkward and detracts from an otherwise good route. It's possible head left after the last bolt and link into Headless Horseman for a nice long pitch. About 14 bolts total, consider extending the first bolt you clip on Headless with a long sling, lower to the ground with a 70m. Beware your belayer won't be able to see you for most of Headless. Dec 4, 2016

Franck Vee

5.10c

Interesting moves swinging from one side to the other of that arrete. The rock above decreases in quality which takes away a bit of the quality of the climb.

Fun moves, but quality-wise a little short, great positioning. I'd give it 2.5/3 stars out of 4. Not an easy 10c, but well protected by Smith's standard. Jul 12, 2017

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.10c

Fun arete route! Tricky getting to first bolt. There are bomber holds to the left but you can’t see them as you are moving over to the arete then come back right to clip with a not so bomber hold. I stick clipped and recommended it as there are boulders on the ground below. The most fun move was on a pocket hold on the left of arete that you use palm down then flip to palm up as you rise above and use it to clip the bolt. After 5th bolt move up and over onto slab where belayer can’t see you anymore. Climbing eases. Then very easy climbing from last bolt to anchor. Jul 25, 2018

Dan Bookless
Bend, OR

5.11a PG13

really fun 5.11a. Probably one of the better short 5.11s that you don't have to wait in line for.
Probably a little stiff for 11- but fun none the less. Taiwan On is Kind of like a mini Latest Rage Oct 8, 2022