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Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Phillips summer 1987, FFA: Greg Phillips summer 1987
Page Views: 2,716 total, 19/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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A fun route with good position on the Third Horseman, which is adjacent to the tallest tower just to a climber's right.

Starting with a step off of a bolted belay onto the face it meanders up good rock with consistent and fun 5.10+ climbing. The bolts are spaced pretty well, which makes for some spicy moves once you start moving around the aretes.


10 bolts to a bolted anchor.

One of the bolts on the belay stance at the bottom has mysteriously gone missing, so there's only one (very solid) bolt remaining. It might be possible to weasel in a cam or nut nearby to have a second piece, but the single bolt is probably fine.


You can belay from the double anchors about 30' up. It's easy to scramble up to them by going left into the gully and traversing back right on 3rd class rock which is very easy with good hands/feet. A 70m rope will allow lowering to the bottom from a ground belayer. The crux is around the fifth bolt - suddenly all the feet disappear and the hands go thin for a few moves. I can confirm that a 15' lead fall from here is apparently safe :-) Mar 20, 2017
Kent, thanks so much for the bolt update. Every bolt looks great as of winter 2016. This thing is rad! Wanders left and right of the bolt line several times, a worthwhile and adventurous 10+ right in the thick of things on the front side. May 7, 2016
Thanks Kent!

Chad Apr 21, 2015
As of April 21 2015, this route sports all new bolts and anchor. Enjoy! Apr 21, 2015
Halfway up is a sequence of 3 glue-in style eyebolts that are spinning freely. They're nested into the rock in a thin iron sleeve of some sort, not the epoxy/eyebolt combo common round here. Given your position it def messes with your head trying to understand how/if they are secure.

Bold stuff, still quality. Apr 13, 2015
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
Really fun route. Run out but very easy to the 1st bolt; throw in a .75 or #1 if you're feeling sketched. Jun 22, 2013
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
If your belayer is on the ledge, the climber can lower all the way down with a 60m rope. Great climb, and for the height, not pumpy at all. If your not comfortable with spaced bolts, you'll love this one. Nov 28, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route. Technical, balancy, but not pumpy at all. The main crux is a short affair between the 4th and 5th bolt, but the movement on the arete above will get your attention. If you want to avoid hellish rope drag, use a long sling on the 3rd bolt. A 70m rope JUST makes the rappel. Apr 18, 2007
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
This enjoyable route feels taller than it is and features some enjoyable moves. Mar 9, 2006