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Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomas Chet Sutterlin 1977
Page Views: 2,111 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent yet neglected multi pitch crack route in the main area.

Pitch 1: 10.b
Start in the same corner system as Calamity Jam but climb out the right side of the bulge via a thin crack. The crack widens to hands above but stays on you for a ways. Move right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2: 5.9
Some people break this into two pitches with a gear anchor if topping out.
From the bolted belay move up the corner above for about 12 feet before moving left into a different crack which splits the face to the left. Diagonal up and left in a nice crack for quite a ways (5.8)before it eases off and either belay or head up into the short but steep corner system (5.9) and belay at a bolted anchor (awkward belay).

Rap the route or Calamity Jam with a 60m or escape by traversing right and rap Cinnamon Slab.

Location

Right of Calamity Jam, Left of Friday's Jinx

Protection

Gear to 3" with extra 1-3"

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
The 10b roof protects well and if juggy, however reachy, with the crux just after the roof. Bring 2-3 each of #2, and #3 Camalots for the 2nd pitch. The top out was cool with overhanging crack, was not too hard if stemming, we did as a short 3rd pitch because it also takes big cams.
Also have done this with the 10a variation and it is harder then it looks, very strenuous placing gear at fingers layback crux. Mar 14, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was awesome. I found it considerably harder than its neighbor, Pack Animal Direct. It stays in-your-face well after pulling the roof, but the gear is all there. Oct 22, 2006