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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Ed Webster, Robert Anderson 1990
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route lies midway between Root of All Evil and Good Timing. Start from the top of the blocks at the base of the slab. Angle right on moderate, 5.7 or so, climbing past two bolts to a small ceiling. You can get some small gear here, but the ceiling is easy, and there is a good pin just above. The Rossiter top shows it going right from here then back left, but I went left and then up and slightly right. This is way runout, but also very easy at maybe 5.5. Possible ground fall potential.

Aim for the short, right-facing corner through the roofs, down and just left of a small tree above the roofs. The corner is a bit dirty, but solid. At first I had a nut in the obvious finger jam/slot in the corner, but it was in the way, so I took it out. I relied on a less than bomber micro cam (#00 Metolius??). There is a small bush whose root makes a smooth but small handhold.

Pulling the first roof felt quite hard. Much harder than Root of All Evil, but my partners felt the two routes are comparable. Once in the corner you can clip the pin out left. Back up the pin with a cam to the right (strenuous). Mantle left around the corner and stand up. Step right and up to the tree. The Rossiter topo shows a bolt by the pin, but there is no such bolt, nor is it needed.

I give this route one star due to the moderate grunge at the crux and the unsustained nature of the climbing. It's not up to the quality of the neighboring routes.

Protection

2 bolts near the bottom, fixed pin above small ceiling on slab, runout but easy to the roof, #2, #3 offset Friend (or regular Friends) below the roof, micro cam in corner above (don't fill in finger hold in crack with a nut!), fixed pin above final roof that can be backed up with a mid sized cam. Slings and single ring on tree.

Photos

Ivan is being generous with this routes quality (can we say crap?) I've always had a problem trusting the single piece of protection at the crux roof. Sep 21, 2003