Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: [FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook)]
Page Views: 1,552 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Very obvious, large, left-facing dihedral that runs straight up the right side of the Pear formation.

P1. The start is either face moves to the left of the dirty corner (guidebook says this) and traverse right about 15 feet up (lots of lichen) or do some weird stemming and chimney moves (I did this) and get up to where the dihedral is a clean corner with a varying crack. Either way, routefinding is a breeze as you just take the dihedral and jam and stem your way 150 feet to a fixed anchor (stiff 5.9, sustained with few rests).

Pitch 2 looks harder as it leans farther left but the face angle eases and it is much easier but VERY fun and exciting (5.7).

Scramble off right or climb one more easy pitch to summit ridge and rap from trees.

Protection

Full set of cams from Aliens to #5 Camalot.

Photos

With the exception of one black, oily-looking guano perch, the "dirty corner" at the bottom is actually quite clean and contains enjoyable climbing that is well protected and easy with one commiting (but moderate) move exiting the chimney to get established in the dihedral. Good route. Aug 5, 2002
The start in the corner is a bit dirty and licheny. One should not be discouraged by this as things clean up nicely above. Oct 29, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook) Mar 25, 2006
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Meaty! Considering that the angle of the cliff lies back why is this one so awkward, sustained and strenuous? In UK terms, traditional gritstone HVS 5b. May 8, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Old school 5.9. Protect the low crux out of the chimney by placing a hand-sized cam out to the right side in a crack 2 feet away from the corner. Route can be done with a single 60m rope to just arrive on the ledge, but a 70m is better to give you room to go set the belay more comfortably.
3" gear for the belay anchor up top. Jun 29, 2013
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
 
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
 
A very good route with a wide variety of interesting moves. If you don't have a #5 cam or other wide gear, P2 has a 10-15 foot runout (5.7). Jun 4, 2016