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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: [FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook)]
Page Views: 1,407 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Very obvious, large, left-facing dihedral that runs straight up the right side of the Pear formation.

P1. The start is either face moves to the left of the dirty corner (guidebook says this) and traverse right about 15 feet up (lots of lichen) or do some weird stemming and chimney moves (I did this) and get up to where the dihedral is a clean corner with a varying crack. Either way, routefinding is a breeze as you just take the dihedral and jam and stem your way 150 feet to a fixed anchor (stiff 5.9, sustained with few rests).

Pitch 2 looks harder as it leans farther left but the face angle eases and it is much easier but VERY fun and exciting (5.7).

Scramble off right or climb one more easy pitch to summit ridge and rap from trees.

Protection

Full set of cams from Aliens to #5 Camalot.
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
 
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
 
A very good route with a wide variety of interesting moves. If you don't have a #5 cam or other wide gear, P2 has a 10-15 foot runout (5.7). Jun 4, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Old school 5.9. Protect the low crux out of the chimney by placing a hand-sized cam out to the right side in a crack 2 feet away from the corner. Route can be done with a single 60m rope to just arrive on the ledge, but a 70m is better to give you room to go set the belay more comfortably.
3" gear for the belay anchor up top. Jun 29, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Meaty! Considering that the angle of the cliff lies back why is this one so awkward, sustained and strenuous? In UK terms, traditional gritstone HVS 5b. May 8, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
FA: Filip Sokol, Jim Sharp 1968 (according to the Gillett guidebook) Mar 25, 2006
The start in the corner is a bit dirty and licheny. One should not be discouraged by this as things clean up nicely above. Oct 29, 2003
With the exception of one black, oily-looking guano perch, the "dirty corner" at the bottom is actually quite clean and contains enjoyable climbing that is well protected and easy with one commiting (but moderate) move exiting the chimney to get established in the dihedral. Good route. Aug 5, 2002