Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974.
Page Views: 316 total · 2/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Oct 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.

1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.

2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.

3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.

Protection

Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.

Photos

Errett Allen  
 
Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them. Oct 20, 2003
Felt like 9+ to me. Definitely not a sandbag at 10- great route though. Avoid using the tree at the start and that will feel like the crux. Apr 17, 2006
OK I've been getting crap for calling this 9+ from a lot of folks. So I went back and climbed it again yesterday, and I must say that, since I knew the moves 2nd time around, it felt more like 9-. Aug 9, 2006
2nd & 3rd pitch can easily be linked to the ramp walk-off. Difficulty seemed appropriately graded given other Lumpy classics -i.e.
Loose Ends
Orange Julius.

I found it somewhat run out in the more difficult section, RPs would help some. The 5.8 traverse was easily protected (not R at all). Jul 24, 2011
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
5.10c
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
5.10c
The roof is hard with crimpy holds above and poor feet. Maybe it was early morning chill, but I found it significantly harder than the roof on Heart of Norway. So, yes, harder than 5.10a. Jun 14, 2017