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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974.
Page Views: 183 total, 1/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Oct 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.

1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.

2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.

3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.

Protection

Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
5.10c
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
5.10c
The roof is hard with crimpy holds above and poor feet. Maybe it was early morning chill, but I found it significantly harder than the roof on Heart of Norway. So, yes, harder than 5.10a. Jun 14, 2017
2nd & 3rd pitch can easily be linked to the ramp walk-off. Difficulty seemed appropriately graded given other Lumpy classics -i.e.
Loose Ends
Orange Julius.

I found it somewhat run out in the more difficult section, RPs would help some. The 5.8 traverse was easily protected (not R at all). Jul 24, 2011
OK I've been getting crap for calling this 9+ from a lot of folks. So I went back and climbed it again yesterday, and I must say that, since I knew the moves 2nd time around, it felt more like 9-. Aug 9, 2006
Felt like 9+ to me. Definitely not a sandbag at 10- great route though. Avoid using the tree at the start and that will feel like the crux. Apr 17, 2006
Errett Allen  
 
Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them. Oct 20, 2003