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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Salud T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V8 7B
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974.
Page Views: 256 total · 1/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Oct 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.

1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.

2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.

3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.

Protection

Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.

Photos

Errett Allen  
 
Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them. Oct 20, 2003
Felt like 9+ to me. Definitely not a sandbag at 10- great route though. Avoid using the tree at the start and that will feel like the crux. Apr 17, 2006
OK I've been getting crap for calling this 9+ from a lot of folks. So I went back and climbed it again yesterday, and I must say that, since I knew the moves 2nd time around, it felt more like 9-. Aug 9, 2006
2nd & 3rd pitch can easily be linked to the ramp walk-off. Difficulty seemed appropriately graded given other Lumpy classics -i.e.
Loose Ends
Orange Julius.

I found it somewhat run out in the more difficult section, RPs would help some. The 5.8 traverse was easily protected (not R at all). Jul 24, 2011
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
5.10c
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
5.10c
The roof is hard with crimpy holds above and poor feet. Maybe it was early morning chill, but I found it significantly harder than the roof on Heart of Norway. So, yes, harder than 5.10a. Jun 14, 2017

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