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The Pear Rock Climbing
Routes in The Pear
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Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sloper Ramp V8 7B |
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Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Elevation: | 8,581 ft |
| GPS: |
40.4102, -105.54653 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 57,589 total · 211/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
West of all the Books, an intruiging combination of good beginner routes, odd-looking overhangs, and enjoyable bolted slabs. Do La Chaim (5.7), Good Timing (5.10a), and Fat-Bottomed Groove (5.10d R) for a taste of all three.
Descent: you can walk off nearly nearly every climb after two pitches. Routes west of the landmark, giant Batrachian Dihedral intersect a convenient ledge. East of the dihedral, the "walk off" is quite confusing--wander over to the right (east) when things get lower-angle and easy, and look for a way off--the best way is counterintuitively higher than it appears, though it is easy enough to do a short rappel from most points lower than that. If summitting (usually 4-5 pitches), rappel from slings to the north and hike around east to the base.
Descent: you can walk off nearly nearly every climb after two pitches. Routes west of the landmark, giant Batrachian Dihedral intersect a convenient ledge. East of the dihedral, the "walk off" is quite confusing--wander over to the right (east) when things get lower-angle and easy, and look for a way off--the best way is counterintuitively higher than it appears, though it is easy enough to do a short rappel from most points lower than that. If summitting (usually 4-5 pitches), rappel from slings to the north and hike around east to the base.
Getting There
Go on the west trail from the new parking lot towards the old Twin Owls trailhead ~0.6 miles. Follow signs west from the old Twin Owls trailhead along the flatter/lower Black Canyon Trail. Continue past the trail to the Book. There is a sign marking the trail to the Pear. This is just West of the Bookend. ~45-55 minutes to approach.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Pear
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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