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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:

Description

West of all the Books, an intruiging combination of good beginner routes, odd-looking overhangs, and enjoyable bolted slabs. Do La Chaim (5.7), Good Timing (5.10a), and Fat-Bottomed Groove (5.10d R) for a taste of all three.

Descent: you can walk off nearly nearly every climb after two pitches. Routes west of the landmark, giant Batrachian Dihedral intersect a convenient ledge. East of the dihedral, the "walk off" is quite confusing--wander over to the right (east) when things get lower-angle and easy, and look for a way off--the best way is counterintuitively higher than it appears, though it is easy enough to do a short rappel from most points lower than that. If summitting (usually 4-5 pitches), rappel from slings to the north and hike around east to the base.
Season raptor closures Details

Getting There

Go on the west trail from the new parking lot towards the old Twin Owls trailhead ~0.6 miles. Follow signs west from the old Twin Owls trailhead along the flatter/lower Black Canyon Trail. Continue past the trail to the Book. There is a sign marking the trail to the Pear. This is just West of the Bookend. ~45-55 minutes to approach.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pear

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
First time I did Chrome Plated, got caught in a raging snowstorm on the 4th pitch. I discovered you can easily get off the Pear by traversing left (west) to an obvious pine tree that is below the summit headwall. The ledge turns the corner to the right (north) at this tree. The pine often has rap slings on it, but just continue traversing straight north across blocks and ledges beyond it (third class -- some exposure) into the west descent gully. Aug 19, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
A single 60m rope makes the rap from the summit. Rossiter claims this rap is only 75 feet so it would appear even a single 50m rope would make it. It is possible to walk off to the west from here, although this involves downclimbing some 5.0 slabs - not recommended! Aug 5, 2002
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
The perfect rock for a fun and mellow day of climbing, especially for beginers. It's got the easiest approach of any of Lumpy's formations and a greater collection of easy to moderate routes. It's definitely got its challenging runout routes as well, but it can't be beat if you're looking for a day of rest and relaxation on the rock. Dec 18, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
The very highest northern pinnacle has chains you can rap from - though we used double 60s and easily reached the ground, it might have been close with a single, as you're dropping into a deep trench. Alternately, scramble about 100' east to a bulbous rock where there are another set of chains with a considerably shorter drop. Then follow class II/III descent to the east and around - though one girl in our party had a spectacular feet over head spin fall (probably 7.8 out of 10) after stepping on a loose boulder - so do so carefully. Sep 3, 2001

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