Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Harison, Kimball
Page Views: 922 total · 3/month
Shared By: Steve Bartlett on Feb 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

A fun climb. This is a study in contrasts, with both pitches equally demanding and memorable. Pitch one is a well-protected, burly roof struggle, while pitch two is a delicate and kinda scary slab.

P1. The route starts by a left-facing groove under the right end of a roof a ways right of Slippage. Wallow up the ugly groove, then monkey out left across This is the obvious flake. This is a juggy dream, all kinds of limbs can be used to help support body weight. Double ropes will allow for no-drag pro while hauling yourself (crux) into the obvious belay niche above.

P2. The second pitch is utterly different! Head carefully up the whitish dike above and slightly right. Though badly protected, this 5.9 climbing is very cool, connecting features on the dike (footholds, sidepulls, etc.) rather than plain old gibbering up a blank slab. As the runout gets worse, the angle eases (as does the rating), so just keep going up to a big belay ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Hand/fist size cams and maybe slings for the flake. Pitch two is pretty runout. Double ropes help with effective protection on the traverse on pitch one.