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Fat-Bottomed Groove
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Pear
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Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sloper Ramp V8 7B |
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Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Harison, Kimball |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Feb 19, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
A fun climb. This is a study in contrasts, with both pitches equally demanding and memorable. Pitch one is a well-protected, burly roof struggle, while pitch two is a delicate and kinda scary slab.
P1. The route starts by a left-facing groove under the right end of a roof a ways right of Slippage. Wallow up the ugly groove, then monkey out left across This is the obvious flake. This is a juggy dream, all kinds of limbs can be used to help support body weight. Double ropes will allow for no-drag pro while hauling yourself (crux) into the obvious belay niche above.
P2. The second pitch is utterly different! Head carefully up the whitish dike above and slightly right. Though badly protected, this 5.9 climbing is very cool, connecting features on the dike (footholds, sidepulls, etc.) rather than plain old gibbering up a blank slab. As the runout gets worse, the angle eases (as does the rating), so just keep going up to a big belay ledge.
P1. The route starts by a left-facing groove under the right end of a roof a ways right of Slippage. Wallow up the ugly groove, then monkey out left across This is the obvious flake. This is a juggy dream, all kinds of limbs can be used to help support body weight. Double ropes will allow for no-drag pro while hauling yourself (crux) into the obvious belay niche above.
P2. The second pitch is utterly different! Head carefully up the whitish dike above and slightly right. Though badly protected, this 5.9 climbing is very cool, connecting features on the dike (footholds, sidepulls, etc.) rather than plain old gibbering up a blank slab. As the runout gets worse, the angle eases (as does the rating), so just keep going up to a big belay ledge.
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