Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Chip Salaun and Gina Wilson
Page Views: 2,175 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nate Christiansen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


Gina's Surprise is route that is farthest to the right on the Pear. The line is the obvious grey dike that shoots up for approx. 150-160 feet. This line is not advisable to climb with gear for a fall on the first pitch would be a disaster. There are a couple shallow horns that could be used. The second pitch is a short lie back crack that goes up for about 70-80'. Descent right from there when crack runs out.

This can be climbed to the top of the formation in 5 pitches.


Well, first pitch, none. Second pitch, larger stoppers and med cams.

Kid Friendliness

It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (7-8 year old) to ascend without excessive difficulty.


Fired this on [Saturday] and the description's [right] about no gear on pitch one but that's climbin', Especially at [Lumpy]. sure, [it's] not very hard but don't fall! Otherwise, good route, but a spicy little vixen. Definitely deserves 2 stars. Sep 20, 2004
I've climbed this route before, and it was pretty close to my limit. I'm new to climbing, and am very recreational with it. For me, it was horrifying and unsafe. I think this pitch should be bolted so it's accessible to all. As is, it's unjustifiable. Just my 2 cents worth. Brian Hopkins (sorry for the AC, but I'm not registered on the site) Sep 20, 2004
craggin carl
craggin carl  
I agree, Maybe a bolt would not be so bad to protect the ground fall. This is a very moderate climb with serious consequences. I believe it would be a service to the community and climbing population in general. There are a bit of novices getting in over there head, besides how many more people could access this hidden gem if it were made more accesible to all. Sep 20, 2004
(In case the last 2 posts were not trolls) ... Brian and Carl- what makes you guys think, that just because you are new to climbing and want safe routes to lead, that all easy routes should be turned into sport clip-ups? A 5.5 X route is NOT a beginner route. Lumpy is a traditional area and, over the years, new climbers learning at trad areas have typically followed a more experienced leader, and TR'd many, many pitches before they step on the sharp end. So go to the gym, follow many moderate trad pitches, boulder, go TR on short cliffs, practice mock leading, and then come back to this route when you are ready.

Don't dumb down traditional climbing for the rest of the community. If you want safe easy routes to lead, there are many moderate sport pitches in the region. Sep 21, 2004
craggin carl
craggin carl  
I'm planning on bolting this bad boy as soon as the weather looks good. It will be nicer for people transitioning from the gym to leading outdoors. It is much easier to lead without carrying all the trad gear. Apr 28, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, this 1st pitch has some gear, albeit, not great. I watched 2 ladies put in 4-5 pieces in the 1st 100ft to the tree. Red Alien, big RP (before the dike), blue? Alien (L of the dike), yellow Alien.... The first time up, Allen led P1 with 1 piece of gear climbing the R side of the dike (ladies are smarter than us, boys).

Also, this is a kid friendly route, if someone in your party is up to the lead. My 7 & 9 year olds scampered up this. P3 seemed to be the crux with a R-angling crack. P1 100ft, P2 190ft to a ledge (#3.5 & #4F for the belay), P3 190ft to a big tree with a ledge, P4 190 ft to a cozy recess, P5 100ft to the top. Exciting lower for the kids. Aug 10, 2005
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.4 PG13
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.4 PG13
There is absolutely no way the first pitch on this climb should be considered X. I would say it isn't even R. Perhaps a PG13 rating because the pro isn't obvious, but I got 6 pieces of bomber pro in, and I would be willing to take a fall on any of those pieces. 3 were very good slung horns. In addition, I got a bomber small nut in at the start, a #1 BD cam a little bit above on the left, and one more C3 small cam. I continued all the way to the top... the 3rd pitch was a bit run out, but on very easy ground. It would only be scary if it were raining.... Jun 15, 2010
Joe Catellani
Seattle, wa
  5.5 PG13
Joe Catellani   Seattle, wa
  5.5 PG13
This is a fun route and well-protected if you have small cams and wireds. To prove a point, I got 8 pieces of pro in the first 100 ft pitch. PG not X. Jul 3, 2014
IF you are comfortable with the grade, you can solo this entire route all the way to the top of the formation and still make belays and anchors for your second....

IF you are comfortable with Lumpy and climbing there.... Jun 20, 2016
E Ann
E Ann   Colorado
There’s one spicy move 10 ft off the ground - a big step left and loop the horns with slings. No problem after this. Please don’t put in unnecessary bolts. Jul 8, 2018