Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose, 1969
Page Views: 25,874 total · 113/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


192 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

A quote-unquote classic... while good, I wouldn't say stellar.

P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.

Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.

Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.

Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.

Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos