Avg: 2.6 from 201 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose, 1969|
|Page Views:||27,395 total · 114/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Komarnitsky on Sep 1, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.
Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.
Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.
Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.
Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.