Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose, 1969
Page Views: 22,970 total · 109/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

173 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


A quote-unquote classic... while good, I wouldn't say stellar.

P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.

Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.

Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.

Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.

Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.


Standard rack.
The first two pitches are quite good. You're not missing much other than the view if you take the walk-off here. From the big ledge on top of the second pitch, you can also move left to the next left-facing dihedral and finish on Pig With Earrings, with better, but more exciting 5.7 climbing on a clean slab. Some really dumb people I know do this by accident (hmm... I wonder if that #4 stopper will hold this 60 footer?)

The regular finish is, IMO, a whole lot of 5.7. An easier route to the summit traverses left under the bulgy overhanging section (and left of the obvious overhanging fist crack) to a small ledge. Belay here if rope drag is an issue, and then head up a very short 5.5 crack to the easy summit slabs. Two sets of rap anchors - the ones on the left (climber's left) side of the summit are quality, while the ones on the right side of the summit make up for lack of quality with quantity. Sep 4, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Excellent moderate route! P1 is slightly runout before the belay, keep your cool! The second pitch is one of the best moderate dihedrals I've climbed at Lumpy. Routefinding on the upper section can be a bit tricky and there are several ways to go on p. 3. After the rap off the summit, it is possible to walk off to the west, although this involves downclimbing some 5.0 slabs. After these slabs you join with the walk off from pitch 2 of this route. Aug 5, 2002
Extremely polished on the first pitch going up the dihedral. Feb 21, 2003
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
Nice route, especially pitch 2. Good moderate, good pro and not very hard (5.7, I guess). The first pitch didn't seem too polished to me but is runout a tad to the belay. Still not that bad. Also- we moved our 4th belay about 25-30ft right into a corner for the summit pitch. Went straight up then around an overhang on the right. Nice move, pretty easy. Then just wanderered up and belayed near the top- watch out for rope drag and getting your rope caught in a crack. Good stuff all around. Nov 9, 2004
Could someone add a picture of the giant granite ass? Otherwise nobody will understand the name! Feb 5, 2006
Loveland, CO
KevinCO   Loveland, CO
I love this route! Have done it numerous times. No one has mentioned a variation that is a blast! Start La Chaim and face climb towards the base of the Chrome Plated dihedral. Belay here and undercling around the overhang to join Chrome Plated. Bring a #4 Camalot. Mar 23, 2006
I didn't think it was all that it is cracked up to be. Sep 15, 2006
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado and Kentucky
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado and Kentucky
Ok, I must have left my brain at the trailhead the day I did this climb. For those of you who are interested, here is a more detailed description of pitch one: Locate a block just left of the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral mentioned above. Scramble to the top of the block and locate several cracks. Pick a crack and go up, but not too far- you want to exit onto the ledge at about 25'. On this ledge, walk left a bit and ascend the left-facing flake. Don't go up the right-facing flake farther to the left. The crack runs out into positive hand and footholds. Traverse left when you find the easy holds. There's a place for a #8 Metolius/#2 Camalot on your way across. Belay comfortably in the alcove. P2 is a no-brainer. Sep 3, 2007
An obvious and enjoyable variation steps left around the wild-but-easy corner at the first belay. Pick your way delicately up and left into the Le Chaim crack, and romp up that to that luxurious belay/walkoff ledge. Sep 19, 2008
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun route but crowded on Saturday. At the base of the climb at 8:40AM we were 3rd in line. Unfortunately, the 2nd party had difficulty climbing the 1st pitch of Magical (eventually, they gave up and retreated). So, after an hour of waiting we chose to climb the large block that starts Neko's, then veered up and right to the right-facing Magical dihedral. With a 70M rope we linked the first two pitches together with just enough room to belay at the far right of the walk off ledge. This hybrid pitch was the best of the day. From there we moved our belay left to the huge pine tree and climbed a few more pitches to the summit. Near the top, at the giant belay ledge, we climbed up and around the right side which was pretty easy climbing with just a couple 5.7 moves -- but the rope drag was significant. Had to split up what could have been a long 4th pitch to the summit into two because the rope got stuck (twice) in a crack under the right overhang. The rappel off the top into the deep slot was great. Jun 8, 2009
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I found the description of the last pitch to be very confusing, so I looked it up in a guidebook and posted a picture. (We climbed it not sure what the grade was of the variation we did). I could not find all the variations listed. (namely, line A seems natural, but I didn't see it on the topo)

The line we attempted (B to D in my picture, option 2 in the description, I believe) is listed as 5.9. The flake felt about 5.9 to me, but the ass crack felt harder... maybe because I suck at fist jams. (I gave up on it and exited left with awful rope drag...)

The exit left (C) is listed as 5.6. I'm not sure what line A is rated, but the difficulty could be avoided by going further left (option 4 in the description?)

The "natural line" or original line is much further right and completely avoids the "ass" according to the guide book and that is listed as 5.7. I believe that is option 1. (So, from line B in my photo, go another 10 feet right and up the next corner system.) Jun 20, 2009
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
What a fun route. Felt 5.6 and well protected (lots of nuts, 0.4-3 cam rack would do for the whole route) through the 1st 4 pitches. Don't go into the last pitch thinking 5.7 though, a section of this pitch is stiffer than that, but protects very well. Jun 26, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
Overhyped climb. Cool name but so-so climbing. I've done lots nicer on the LR! Mar 19, 2011
Just climbed this the other day, and I would say that while it was a pretty good climb it's definitely over-hyped. We had ended up having to turn the first pitch into two, because we didn't realized there was a higher belay ledge.

The belay for what should have been the second pitch (our third) was a pretty crappy stance and uncomfortable. The second pitch takes big gear, which we really didn't have much of, we had one #4 BD cam, but it was in the belay anchor below, so it didn't help. So, the second pitch ends up being somewhat runout if you don't have some large pieces of gear. I did manage to get some marginal smaller piece deeper in the crack, though.

We ended up not bothering with the final three pitches, since the first two turned into three and my climbing partner had painful blisters from the hike in. I also ended up with a nasty blood blister on my small toe from climbing in aggressive shoes.

Overall, the climb is pretty good, and I would say the lower two pitches are probably 5.6, 5.7 might be a stretch. I would suggest finding something that doesn't require such a long hike in (not that the approach is that bad, but there are better things closer). May 16, 2012
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
There are no 5.7s at Lumpy with an easier approach than Magical Chrome. You could head up to Osiris, which is quite a leap up in difficulty/length. Lumpy might not be your thing, what with the HUGE approach and all. The upper pitches are very worth it! May 17, 2012
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
If you choose to exit to the right of the butt on the final pitch, depending on your gear placements, you risk getting the rope stuck underneath the big flake/layback crux item about 20 feet off the ground. We may have been a tad off route, although this took us just 20 feet or so to the left of the rap bolts. We got the rope really stuck, no amount of shaking from either side would free it up, and ultimately the leader had to lower down to it, free it, and prussik up after switching around some gear. Not a huge deal, bit of a pain though. Jun 6, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Not really sure what everyone is griping about. Followed the description in the Gillett guidebook and had no route-finding difficulties. Furthermore, we thought that the last 3 pitches were quality as well and deserved to be climbed. Jul 26, 2012
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Only did the first two pitches, but for the grade, they were fantastic. If you're a leader who is in the moderates at this point, then you'll really enjoy this. We did the first two pitches as the guidebook describes them (belaying part way up the right-facing dihedral). I decided to belay after pulling the slight overhang just for ease of communication, and so my partner also got to lead a pitch. I don't know if I'd recommend making a belay here, as noted all over this page most people do the first two pitches as one pitch and that's probably the best way to do this. The belay is uncomfortable, and you use up all your big gear making an anchor. Doing it as one pitch may cause some rope drag toward the top, but you'll just have to feel it out as go to determine what you want to do. Jun 20, 2014
David Graham
David Graham   Dallas
For a new leader out there looking for an easy route, this is a great option.
Calling this a 5.7 is a little deceptive, since there was only one 5.7 move at the beginning of the last pitch (depending on variation I guess), and the rest seems like 5.4 and 5.5 climbing to me.
Thought the first pitch and the last pitches were just all right. Aug 2, 2015
Climbed the first two pitches and walked off. The traverse to the belay at the end of the first pitch took a yellow Totem basic and a little further an equivalent of a #2 BD C4. Wasn't too runout, and there were good holds to hand traverse. I got to the dihedral then pulled around the roof to the right (protected with a #4 BD C4). I then built a semi-hanging belay with the equivalent of two #3 BD C4s and a #4 BD C4 that I back cleaned. A big hex in the anchor would have made me feel a little better, but the three cams worked. Moving off the belay, there isn't much pro unless you brought some big cams. I walked up two cams as I moved up (an old BD #4 and old BD #4.5). Two BD #5 C4s would probably work to walk up as well A little higher up, a #4 BD C4 worked well, and a place for a #2 BD C4 was just a few feet higher. I placed both. Jul 17, 2016
Denver, CO
J P   Denver, CO
From the looks of it and some of the earlier comments, people may be traversing too early at the end of the P1. If you go high enough on the hand crack, there is a seam that breaks left with good feet and takes smaller pro and shouldn't feel too runout.

It puts you at a belay on the right-facing dihedral just below what looks like a bigger move.

If you're taking the standard exit on P5, belay on the right side of the ledge just under where you go up and right for the final pitch. We belayed too far left, and there was wicked rope drag that required us to belay and shortrope from about 40 feet below the summit rappel.

Fun route. I thought it was a easier than the climbing of White Whale of the Left Book which also has a consensus grade of 5.7. Sep 1, 2016
Ben D.
Ben D.   Colorado
Fun, aesthetic route with beautiful belay views. Most of the climbing felt like 5.5-5.6 with the exception being the start of P5 which has a couple 5.7 moves that are easy to protect. We broke up P5 into two pitches due to rope drag. Easy approach and an easy walk off (after the initial rap off the top). Oct 29, 2018