Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Quinn McCleod, Luke Luktemeyer , 1984.
Page Views: 228 total · 1/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on May 9, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

A bit contrived but good climbing up a water stained slab right of La Chaim. Three bolts, the hard moves are below and above the 1st clip. This appears modern and can be stickclipped by prudent climbers. 2nd bolt is rusting shaft with nut type, luckly the moves here are easy. 3rd bolt is modern and protects nice 5.9. Belay on foot ledge. Cross Chrome.....up poorly protected slab (with 1 bolt?) to walk off ledge.

Protection

3 quickdraws for initial bolts standard rack for 2nd pitch and belays.

Photos

paco  
Pitch two steps onto the slab right of p.2 Chrome Plated... the single old bolt for this quality but runout 5.9 R/X slab has been replaced with a new 3/8 x 2 1/2" Rawl. May 18, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
P1 is quite nice, though, pretty thin (especially for non-friction climbers). Sticky rubber, yeah!. Originally rated 9+ in S. Kimball's 1st guide but 10- seems fair. Can traverse off L easily if P2's 9 R/X is not your speed. There are 2 bolts to the L of P1, anyone know what route these belong to? Sep 11, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Our party of 3 (one a slab climber, one not (me), one not sure) thought this was much harder than Good Timing (10a). Maybe hard 10 for Finger Tripping? Or medium 9 for Good Timing.

An alternative to stick clipping the first bolt is to climb up and left on easy rock to a crack, place cams, then TR the first moves with a diagonal rope, clip the bolt, downclimb, retrieve the cams, climb back to the first bolt. Yes, I did all that and then backed off two moves later.

After the hard moves at the third bolt we placed gear, traversed right, then down an easy crack placing gear along the way to protect the last climber.

Another strange maneuver: Being a party of 3, the 2nd needed to trail a rope. Rather than uncoil the second rope, the second tied into both ends of the lead rope, competing a circle, pulling up one end of the rope while being TR'd on the other end. Sep 21, 2003
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Gave this one a go on TR the other day to "test the waters" of Lumpy 10a slab climbs. Worth doing, particularly if you are a slab-a-phobe like me; I could not believe my feet actually stuck and I could move upward. As I climbed this, I thought of leading it, and I felt an extreme tightening of the sphincter, this would be a very tangy lead for a slab climber of my caliber... Aug 1, 2006
The second bolt has a missing hanger, and all that is left is a stud with no nut on the thread. This should be fixed. You can choke a wire around the stud, but it's not the most confidence inspiring. Jul 6, 2018