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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: [Steve Komito & Jenny Goldberg, 1970s]
Page Views: 3,010 total, 15/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on the left side of the Pear, and features an excellent thin finger crack on the second pitch. It starts about 150 feet left of the Batrachian Dihedral.

P1-Climb up an easy right-facing corner formed by a smaller rock which abuts the Pear. From a tree, go up left of a dike, past a small tree (sling for protection), and up an unprotected slab to belay on a small ledge (5.7, 150 ft.).

P2-find the finger crack slightly up and right of the belay (not to be confused with a dihedral on the right), and follow it all the way to the walk-off ledge (5.7). Scramble off or continue on Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe.

[La Chaim means "To life!" in Hebrew]

Protection

Bring small stoppers and a few RPs [plus a light standard rack].
Joe Catellani
Seattle, wa
 
Joe Catellani   Seattle, wa
 
Jun. 17, 2014 - lot of grass (and a few flowers) in crack on pitch 2 but doesn't interfere with climbing. Jul 3, 2014
goatboywonder Patrick  
  5.7 R
Real nice climb. Quite runout in spots but manageable. The moves into the final crack on the first pitch really got my attention. Kind of a funky mantle waaay above your last piece of gear. Nov 4, 2009
Sweet climb, kinda run-out in spots but good climbing! The second pitch is the best, superb finger crack! 3 stars but definitely could've been longer! Sep 29, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.7 R
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.7 R
Each pitch is 35m, so you can combine both with a 70m. This climb has some fun runout climbing on P1 and a sweet finger crack on P2. Apr 21, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Towards the top of the finger crack, you can jump over to the left to an even larger crack. Aug 27, 2006
flynn  
A fun combination links up any first pitch of Enema Syringe with the second pitch of La Chaim. Concoct your first pitch and belay at the foot of the dihedral as usual. Then step wildly around left - it looks like it's going to get hard, but always sneaks you a bucket just in time - and angle up and left to ease into the pretty crack that's the second pitch of La Chaim. Enjoy. Apr 12, 2004
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
It's possible to climb La Chaim in a single pitch with some moderate scrambling. We climbing up to the ledge with the tree and belayed from there. From the ledge, climb straight up, clipping the first three bolts on Salud (fun climbing over the small overhand). At the third bolt, break right, climb through some broken looking rock (solid), and aim for the finger crack. Follow the crack to the ledge and walk off. The crack is a lot of fun and well worth doing. Jul 5, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Heck, I might give this route 3 stars "as is". Also, we did not place any RPs on the route. Stoppers and cams are what you need, the biggest thing we used was about #2 Camalot sized. Aug 5, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
[This] is a nice route! We followed Rossiter's topo, which tells you to follow a white dike on p1. This is a good way to find this route although I zig-zagged along the dike trying to find pro and the easiest line. I ended up going 6' right of the small tree, there is a nice flake below and right of this tree that can be used for pro (although the flake may be expanding). On the second pitch, we started up and right, then moved back left to find the good cracks. We had to switch cracks twice as one petered out to find good pro. This climb would definitely be 3 stars if it was longer. Aug 5, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I actually protected the second pitch without using a single RP or tiny stopper. Let's see - red TCU, red & yellow Alien, .75 Camalot, yellow 2 Camalot... and #00 flex Friend, with a couple of good and relatively large stopper placements. Sep 3, 2001
I though the hardest move was a mantle/slab move (more mentally challenging than technical) at the end of the first pitch with about twenty-five feet of run-out below you. Serious fall potential on this one. The finger crack on the second pitch is excellent. Aug 6, 2001