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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster, mid-1980s
Page Views: 1,088 total, 5/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route starts in the center of the Pear.

P1. Get on top of some blocks, about 100 feet right of the Batrachian Dihedral and below a long roof band about 100 feet up. Climb a 5.7 slab with less-than-perfect protection, turn the roof near (but not in!) a break on the right (5.8, #1.5 Friend just above the roof), and traverse about 20 feet left to a belay at 2 bolts. It is somewhat scary for the second unless creative protection can be arranged above the roof. 190'.

P2. Engage excellent slab climbing up and slightly right past 3 bolts; head right into an easier crack, and belay on a ledge. You can continue to a tree.

P3. Do an easy rightward traverse, gaining some elevation, to find the walk-off or a short rappel on the east side of the cliff.

Protection

Light standard rack to a #3.5 Friend.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Agree with Ivan, Finger Tripping is much harder. You can protect the 2nd above the roof with a yellow Alien/TCU about 12' up in a lip. If you try to go to the tree on P2, it will be a rope stretcher with a 60m rope. On the fat side of 2 stars. May 24, 2007
I had the 2001 Gillett book, and it claims a 5.9 rating, which I thought was legit, albeit on the stiff side. Then again, I expect most routes at Lumpy to be stiff, so take that comment for what it's worth.

The roof on P1 protects nicely for the leader, as you can get a piece in above your head, but I couldn't figure out a good way to protect the second. Perhaps a #5 of profanity and a friendly "don't fall" comment while you're nice and safe at the belay bolts.

I only saw 3 bolts as of June-2004 on P2. Maybe I didn't do the route correctly, but after clipping the 3rd bolt, I traversed to the right and escaped into the noticably easier crack. In other words, I did not climb on the slab above the 3rd bolt.

Whatever, I'd had enough of the spicy routes for the day, so I didn't mind taking the easier escape route. Jun 6, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
On the pitch 1 roof, the second can take out the cams at the lip after doing the move, thus avoiding a potential death swing. On pitch 2 there are 4 bolts. The 4th bolt is hidden in a dish. At the third bolt, move left. Microcam or maybe a brass nut can be placed. Then straight up or further left and angle right to the 4th bolt. Above this a flared crack soon begins. I believe this crack is further left than the crack mentioned above. Belay just above the base of this crack, or combine with the next pitch up the crack with a 70m rope. The face right of this pitch 2 crack can be climbed on TR at about 5.9.

This "10a" pitch felt a full number grade easier than Finger Tripping ("10a/b") based on the consensus of the 3 climbers in our party. In our opinion, one of the two routes is mis-rated. Not being a slab climber, I'd prefer Good Timing to be 10a, meaning I'm not that bad a slab climber after all, and Finger Tripping to be much harder, and hence explaining my backing off that one with fearful thoughts. Sep 21, 2003
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
 
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
 
When Charles and I climbed this, we couldn't find the 4th bolt mentioned in the guidebook. Also, the new Gillett guidebook has downrated this route to 5.9, but to me it definitely felt like 5.10a. Dec 18, 2001