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Routes in The Pear

Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pit of the Pear, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sloper Ramp V7 7A+
Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Errett Allen, Scott Cole
Page Views: 231 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

New route left of La Chaim that starts from a huge ledge about 60 feet above the base of The Pear.

Either approach the ledge by doing a short easy pitch that starts up La Chaim and breaks left, or third class up the gully below A Pig With Earrings for 50 feet and tunnel right under a huge flake to the ledge. From the ledge, the route is one long (180 feet) pitch to the walkoff ledge -- 60 meter rope is essential. Look for the first bolt about 8 feet below a small one foot overhang that is about 15 feet long and 20 feet above the ledge. Passing this bolt is the crux. Plug a small cam under the overhang, climb past two more bolts on easy but superb face to the long roof left of La Chaim. Turn the roof directly above the third bolt (5.8). Just above the lip of the roof, you can get a good 2.5 inch cam to the right or a smaller cam higher and left which provide great pro for the roof moves. Climb straight up face past two more bolts. From the last bolt, diagonal up and right to a grassy wide crack (2-3 inch pro). This crack joins La Chaim about 20 feet below the walkoff ledge.

Note: all bolts are 3/8 X 2.5 inch Rawl 5-piece with Metolius hangers, hand drilled from stance on the lead.

Protection

5 bolts, 3/4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3 inch cams

Photos

This is a nice mixed route. It has either bolts or protectable features every time before you make a committing move. This is a safe lead for a newer leader who is trying to push their grades. If you have hiked all the way over to the Pear to climb Enema Syringe, then take the time, and do this one also! Sep 17, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Mixed route? At first I though you meant this was a good winter route, but I think you refer to sport mixed with trad. Sep 17, 2002
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I climbed this route last week. Great job bolting it. The bolts are judiciously placed so they are only there when gear isn't available. A leader can concentrate on the climbing and not worry about the fall potential. This will be a popular one when the word gets out.Brian Jul 26, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Variation 1: lengthen the route by starting near the nadir of the flatiron below with 5.5 s climbing using small Aliens, continue up to clip the 1st 3 bolts and belay at La Chaim's P1 belay. Variation 2: after you get the P2 crack, you can angle L to the tree at 5.6 s for some nice friction. We didn't have this description beforehand. Sep 11, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.7
A fun pitch; worth doing if you're in the area.

We scrambled up an easy right-facing corner to the big ledge at the start of the route. The hardest move is at the first bolt; after that, the climbing is much easier.

The roof at the third bolt seemed about 5.7 at most, but I may have climbed it left of the bolt instead of straight above the bolt.

One more tricky move leads to the hand and fist crack near the end of the pitch; this crack is low-angled and quite easy.

This would be a two-star route if the climbing were more sustained. Jul 14, 2005
The 'small cam' under the first roof (between 2nd & 3rd) bolts is a 1/4" (yellow TCU) or nut. 2 soloists on it the day I was there. One human and one chipmunk. Sep 26, 2005
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun route. I always seem to end up doing it when I visit Errett. Sep 15, 2006
Amos Patrick
Estes Park
  5.7+
Amos Patrick   Estes Park
  5.7+
I thought this route was pretty fun. The bolts are well spaced but placed just where you need them. There is a pretty substantial runout when you start to angle right after the last bolt but it is on easy terrain. The last move to gain the crack definitely got may attention because the crack was wet. Bring a couple small cams and (of course!) the pink tricam was useful. Jan 14, 2010

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