Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Billy Westbay and Michael Covington|
|Page Views:||1,626 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
The start is left of a shrub juniper on the big ledge across the bottom of the SE face. It is just right of the big, triangular flake in the center of the photo with the acute rightward & up pointing triangular shadow. Just right of the start is a ledge with at least 4 trees. When you find yourself near the start, there is a series of holds on the right side of the wall here that looks 5.7ish. The rest looks harder. The angle of the wall diminishes markedly after 20-25 feet. The start is shared with Hand Over Hand & Clowntime is Over.]
Pitch 1: Go up a steeper face perhaps 20 feet (easy 5.7) on good knobs, a #3 Friend is useful. You can sling a horn (weight useful). When you reach the slab, traverse left. Find wonderful knobs here that make this traverse easy but memorable. Think about your second and protect this when you can! There are couple places to belay in this sea of knobs.
Pitch 2: continue this traverse to a corner and belay (slightly awkward). #3, #3 1/2 Friend, hexes are useful for the belay. Pitch 3 (shared with Station to Station): jam up a bulge (crux) in the corner and move right to easier terrain.
In old guides this is rated 5.7. Due to the risk for the second and falling leaders on the traverse, I gave is an S or R, although traditionally, it has not carried such a warning.
A great moderate link-up with Batman and Robin and/or Osiris for bonus mileage.
Bird nesting closure may affect accessibility. Check first.