Avg: 1.7 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,250 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Fisher on Jun 18, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
The best approach is to climb Batman and Robin on Batman Pinnacle and either rap or downclimb to the notch. The other approaches are long and difficult and range from following a faint trail from the base of Batman Pinnacle around the right side and scramble up to the notch or approach as for Batman Rock and follow the faint trail down under the east face until you can see the notch, then scramble up.
From the notch, the route starts in the beautiful, finger crack that leads to a small pine tree.
P1. Climb the finger crack to the small pine tree directly below a short hand crack (5.6). Although a short pitch, belay at the tree to reduce rope drag on the long second pitch.
P2. Climb the short hand crack and traverse left for about 15 feet before running the rope length (60m) to the summit on easy terrain.(5.7-) If you find yourself climbing harder than easy 5th class, you are off route.
This little gem would be a classic if it were longer and easier to get to.