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Routes in Batman Rock

Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Hurley & Charlie Fowler, '71
Page Views: 881 total, 5/month
Shared By: George Bell on Sep 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Spaziergang is German for "walkway". This is a fairly obvious crack on the east face containing a small pine tree about 80' up. Right of this crack is a large right facing corner (Carpenter's Corner). The first pitch also starts about 30' right of Bat Crack.

P1 (100'): The crack with the tree does not reach the ground. Move right under an overhang to find a short, steep crack. Crank up this (5.7) and move up and left to reach the base of the crack with the tree. Follow this fun crack (5.6) past the tree, then traverse right to a small belay ledge about 30' beyond the tree.

One can also start below the crack, step over the overhang and up a steep face, but this is much more dangerous for the leader as there is no protection at all for the first 20' and it is probably at least 5.8 (the party behind us opted for this start). It is also possible to start even farther left, as for Bat Crack: climb up a knobby face, and about 20' up traverse straight right on a line of knobs to the base of the crack with the tree (no pro but only about 5.5).

A large number of slings and rappel rings indicate that rappelling off or toproping the first pitch from the tree is popular. This tree is not large and shows some wear from all of this.

P2 (120'): Move up, then traverse right into a dihedral at the left edge of a large roof band. Climb straight up this over the roof, then continue up and somewhat right to the top of the rock (5.8). The rock on this pitch is a bit grainy, and it may be easier if you go farther right than we did. Near the end of the pitch we did a scary step right into an undercling.

Protection

Standard rack to 2.5".
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
The slings on the tree are quite worn/faded though there are a lot of them; if you're headed up there, it could be worth cutting off some/all of that tat, poor tree. Above the tree there are a couple of large boulders wedged into the cracks, probably don't want to place gear behind or pull too hard on these.

Once above the first "crux" shown in the photos already posted, we opted for the straight up variation, through a series of overlaps with the aforementioned chicken-head; definitely felt harder than 5.8 but, then again, I don't think that's the route. The party before us continued to traverse right, below this section, on much easier terrain to a nice ledge; I think they went straight up from there and kept the climbing at the grade. The more direct variation requires either a strenuous mantle onto the chicken-head or using underclings and crimps to get your right foot onto the chicken-head and then rocking up onto it. Good gear awaits above. There is also a bunch of tat around a large, horizontal pinch more or less directly above this final crux. Could rap from there, probably, but probably just quicker/safer/easier to walk off at that point. Fun climbing on overall good stone! Jul 21, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8 PG13
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8 PG13
This is a pretty good route to learn a little about multi-pitch climbing. I led it with a small standard rack. I would have appreciated a little more gear but that is just something I'll have to acquire over time.

The first pitch is easy, short and a good warm up. The tree-anchor is bomber as are the slings and rings around it.

The second pitch is a little sketchy. I stayed right like the book told me to and found the bulge to be far more difficult than a 5.8 (there were several 5.10+ moves in a row at the bulge). The rock is very gritty and slabby with decent smearing for feet but nearly zero hand holds.

My advice: Trust your feet. They are stickier than you think.

Decent: Walk down the Eastern side of the summit where you will soon see cairns and a trail that guide you back to the bottom of the south facing side of the rock. Jun 29, 2009
Keith Leary
  5.9+ PG13
Keith Leary  
  5.9+ PG13
I agree with TB. I have been on this twice. Once in 2001 and another 2 days ago. I could not find the 5.8 way through the upper bulge. The way we went was hard and crumbling i.e. cat litter. A good route. You can rap off the block below the bulge on the far right. This will keep it 5.8. I did that the first time. Sep 10, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
Can be done as a single pitch with a 70M rope- take a lot of slings with a standard rack. The upper headwall crux will be both difficult and poorly protected for leaders below 5'8" or so. My 5'5" partner had to run it out on less than ideal holds. Doing it her way, we believed it was closer to 5.10 than 5.8. Aug 20, 2006