Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Goldstein & MacDonald, 9/30/06|
|Page Views:||768 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Oct 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Start between the easy and hard starts to Bat Crack P1, to the left of the bulk of the lower half of Bat Crack P1. Climb straight up on easy knobs for about 5m to a horizontal crack. Load the crack up w/ gear (red TriCam, opposed small nuts) and head up ~6m of knobishness to the right side of a long horizontal roof; the first crux of this pitch is about halfway between the gear and the roof where a fall would be neither good nor fatal. The last few moves getting to the roof are dangerously run out but pretty easy. At the roof, make up for lost time and place solid gear. Traverse left, underclinging and jamming the crack at the base of the roof for about 5m with good gear throughout. Somewhere before the roof makes a sharp upward jog, break through to more knobs; depending on exactly where you break through this may be the crux of the pitch. Continue up for about 4m to a shallow left facing corner with small gear. Follow the corner for about 3m as it becomes a small roof until a decent stance is reached below the point where the roof turns up and becomes a corner again. Belay at this point on a variety of gear from RP to red Alien.
For the second pitch, you can either follow the corner up to slab knobs, eventually reaching the roof of Bat Crack, or diagonal up left about 13m to the Marlin Alley P3 roof.
This was named after a famous Dylan song.