Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Neri and Kimball 1975|
|Page Views:||945 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Heiser on Aug 7, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
P1 5.9s Step off the point boulder and do a difficult mantle onto the dike. A good spot can help. This crux has no pro and although close to the ground a fall would be nasty onto the pointed boulder. Traverse up and right to the crack (first pro). Follow the crack for about 25 feet. Strike out up the face aiming for the flake above again with no pro (runout 5.6). Follow the flake around and up 5.8 (some okay pro). At the end of the flake, place a last piece, and head up the face 5.8+ with no pro aiming for a flake with rap slings. Continue past this flake to lower angle rock and a belay at the top of the "Hand Jive" dihedral. ~175'.
P2 5.8 Continue up the short RF dihedral, around to the right and up the easy face to the summit. ~120'
This route is a sentimental favorite of mine as I first did it my first year of climbing in 1978. Super nice rock with knobs and crystals. The best pro on the first pitch is your ability not to fall off as you seldom will be doing any sort of hard move near a piece. Have fun :)