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Station to Station [Edit]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Batman Rock
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Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Neri and Kimball 1975 |
| Page Views: | 455 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Heiser on Aug 7, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description [Edit]
Start this route from a pointed boulder 20 feet to the left of the finger crack of "Women and Children First" which is just to the left of the "Backbone Arete".
P1 5.9s Step off the point boulder and do a difficult mantle onto the dike. A good spot can help. This crux has no pro and although close to the ground a fall would be nasty onto the pointed boulder. Traverse up and right to the crack (first pro). Follow the crack for about 25 feet. Strike out up the face aiming for the flake above again with no pro (runout 5.6). Follow the flake around and up 5.8 (some okay pro). At the end of the flake, place a last piece, and head up the face 5.8+ with no pro aiming for a flake with rap slings. Continue past this flake to lower angle rock and a belay at the top of the "Hand Jive" dihedral. ~175'.
P2 5.8 Continue up the short RF dihedral, around to the right and up the easy face to the summit. ~120'
This route is a sentimental favorite of mine as I first did it my first year of climbing in 1978. Super nice rock with knobs and crystals. The best pro on the first pitch is your ability not to fall off as you seldom will be doing any sort of hard move near a piece. Have fun :)
P1 5.9s Step off the point boulder and do a difficult mantle onto the dike. A good spot can help. This crux has no pro and although close to the ground a fall would be nasty onto the pointed boulder. Traverse up and right to the crack (first pro). Follow the crack for about 25 feet. Strike out up the face aiming for the flake above again with no pro (runout 5.6). Follow the flake around and up 5.8 (some okay pro). At the end of the flake, place a last piece, and head up the face 5.8+ with no pro aiming for a flake with rap slings. Continue past this flake to lower angle rock and a belay at the top of the "Hand Jive" dihedral. ~175'.
P2 5.8 Continue up the short RF dihedral, around to the right and up the easy face to the summit. ~120'
This route is a sentimental favorite of mine as I first did it my first year of climbing in 1978. Super nice rock with knobs and crystals. The best pro on the first pitch is your ability not to fall off as you seldom will be doing any sort of hard move near a piece. Have fun :)
Protection [Edit]
A light standard trad rack with an emphasis on small gear works well on this route. Expect runout 5.7 and no pro for the crux off the ground.
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