Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Neri and Kimball 1975
Page Views: 1,120 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Start this route from a pointed boulder 20 feet to the left of the finger crack of "Women and Children First" which is just to the left of the "Backbone Arete".

P1 5.9s Step off the point boulder and do a difficult mantle onto the dike. A good spot can help. This crux has no pro and although close to the ground a fall would be nasty onto the pointed boulder. Traverse up and right to the crack (first pro). Follow the crack for about 25 feet. Strike out up the face aiming for the flake above again with no pro (runout 5.6). Follow the flake around and up 5.8 (some okay pro). At the end of the flake, place a last piece, and head up the face 5.8+ with no pro aiming for a flake with rap slings. Continue past this flake to lower angle rock and a belay at the top of the "Hand Jive" dihedral. ~175'.

P2 5.8 Continue up the short RF dihedral, around to the right and up the easy face to the summit. ~120'

This route is a sentimental favorite of mine as I first did it my first year of climbing in 1978. Super nice rock with knobs and crystals. The best pro on the first pitch is your ability not to fall off as you seldom will be doing any sort of hard move near a piece. Have fun :)

Protection Suggest change

A light standard trad rack with an emphasis on small gear works well on this route. Expect runout 5.7 and no pro for the crux off the ground.