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Routes in Batman Rock

Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 291 total · 3/month
Shared By: John Korfmacher on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the obvious right-facing corner on the right side of Batman Rock. Belay on a pine-needle covered ledge about 10 m right of the start for Spaziergang.

P1: Climb the corner with good jams (5.8) and excellent pro to a roof; then traverse right under the roof on friction (5.8 PG or S). Belay above the roof after the traverse.

P2: Turn the next roof on the left, then join P2 of Spaziergang for the finish.

Location

Right side of Batman Rock.

Protection

Standard rack is sufficient. An extra very small cam (Metolius 0 or 00) is helpful. P1 has many good mid-size nut placements.

Photos

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John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
 
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
 
The first 80 feet of this route provides good climbing with nice jams, stemming, and friction, and would be well worth it if the rest of the route was decent. Pro on P1 is great right up to the first roof, where it pretty much disappears. There are some horizontal cracks in the roof that might be protectable, but they're mostly flared.

The last piece before the traverse can be backed up (medium nut plus a 0.5 Camalot worked for me) and there's not really any danger of a ground fall...but pro failure on the traverse would result in a nasty swing into the corner. Nov 3, 2008

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