Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Neri & others 1976
Page Views: 2,015 total · 8/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

12 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

I'd give this one three stars if the approach weren't so arduous. The route ascends a prominent, right-facing dihedral on the south face of Batman Rock, beginning east of the base of Batman Pinnacle.

P1. Lieback and jam a RFD until forced onto the face. Move left when a perfect hand-sized crack appears and the difficulty eases. (Rossiter rates this pitch 9 in his narrative description but marks it 8 on the topo.) Take a semi-hanging belay from slings with a link about 150 feet off the deck.

P2. Second pitch takes an obvious, finger-crack layback to a point you can move left over the roof and onto the west face and easy climbing (Rossiter calls this 8 in his narrative and 9 on the topo). I thought the crux was the second pitch, but the beauty of this climb is the consistent level of difficulty.

Recommend doing this after doing Batman Pinnacle. The rappel from that delivers you at the start of Hand Jive. Otherwise, the trail is a long slog for a two-pitch climb.

Protection Suggest change

Finger and hand-sized gear to the #3 blue Camalot.