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Routes in Batman Rock
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Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Neri & others 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,835 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Clarke on Jun 14, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
I'd give this one three stars if the approach weren't so arduous. The route ascends a prominent, right-facing dihedral on the south face of Batman Rock, beginning east of the base of Batman Pinnacle.
P1. Lieback and jam a RFD until forced onto the face. Move left when a perfect hand-sized crack appears and the difficulty eases. (Rossiter rates this pitch 9 in his narrative description but marks it 8 on the topo.) Take a semi-hanging belay from slings with a link about 150 feet off the deck.
P2. Second pitch takes an obvious, finger-crack layback to a point you can move left over the roof and onto the west face and easy climbing (Rossiter calls this 8 in his narrative and 9 on the topo). I thought the crux was the second pitch, but the beauty of this climb is the consistent level of difficulty.
Recommend doing this after doing Batman Pinnacle. The rappel from that delivers you at the start of Hand Jive. Otherwise, the trail is a long slog for a two-pitch climb.
P1. Lieback and jam a RFD until forced onto the face. Move left when a perfect hand-sized crack appears and the difficulty eases. (Rossiter rates this pitch 9 in his narrative description but marks it 8 on the topo.) Take a semi-hanging belay from slings with a link about 150 feet off the deck.
P2. Second pitch takes an obvious, finger-crack layback to a point you can move left over the roof and onto the west face and easy climbing (Rossiter calls this 8 in his narrative and 9 on the topo). I thought the crux was the second pitch, but the beauty of this climb is the consistent level of difficulty.
Recommend doing this after doing Batman Pinnacle. The rappel from that delivers you at the start of Hand Jive. Otherwise, the trail is a long slog for a two-pitch climb.
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