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Routes in Batman Rock

Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Neri & others 1976
Page Views: 1,104 total, 6/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

I'd give this one three stars if the approach weren't so arduous. The route ascends a prominent, right-facing dihedral on the south face of Batman Rock, beginning east of the base of Batman Pinnacle.

P1. Lieback and jam a RFD until forced onto the face. Move left when a perfect hand-sized crack appears and the difficulty eases. (Rossiter rates this pitch 9 in his narrative description but marks it 8 on the topo.) Take a semi-hanging belay from slings with a link about 150 feet off the deck.

P2. Second pitch takes an obvious, finger-crack layback to a point you can move left over the roof and onto the west face and easy climbing (Rossiter calls this 8 in his narrative and 9 on the topo). I thought the crux was the second pitch, but the beauty of this climb is the consistent level of difficulty.

Recommend doing this after doing Batman Pinnacle. The rappel from that delivers you at the start of Hand Jive. Otherwise, the trail is a long slog for a two-pitch climb.

Protection

Finger and hand-sized gear to the #3 blue Camalot.

Photos

Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
A short but quality line...definitely an overlooked classic. Killer hands in a steep corner on P1 lead to a small, open book corner on P2...the gear and holds are better than they look from below. Don't miss this one if you are up at Batman! Aug 20, 2013
Ross Philip
Boulder, Colorado
Ross Philip   Boulder, Colorado
A double-zero Mastercam placed in the horizontal crack at the top and just left of the dihedral on the 2nd pitch helps calm the nerves for the face moves up and left out of the dihedral. Sep 25, 2012
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
The first pitch is indeed consistent and, I found, very 9 in places. The second pitch is cruxy for about 12 feet and the move left out of the crack is not that well-protected. Fun stuff.

Once you've arrived back at the base of the climb, ***if you have a 60 mtr rope,*** shoot up the dihedral just left (noted as "the alternate .7 start" for Hand Jive) for another good 80 feet of climbing. You can use the same slings you used for P1 of Hand Jive to rappel back down.

The descent, as far as we could tell, is boulder hopping down Batman, past the west side of the Batman Pinnacle, then 2 rappels to the ground. Careful getting to the first one. It's a little sketchy. Take the left-most option to get there. You can see the beginning of the second pitch of Batman and Robin (5.6) to your left at the rappel station, (a huge block with slings and 2 rap rings). Aug 4, 2004