Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,474 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Aug 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

As per Rossiter:

P1: Start on a ledge with a juniper and a tree about 30' up and left of Bat Crack. Anchor your belayer and have them put you on due to the fall potential off to your left, and fire up the knobby face to gain the bottom of an obvious flake. The start is easier than it looks (5.5 or so) starting in on the right, but there is no gear for about 25'. Cruise up the flake taking a bomber hand crack up a slab until it trends left under a roof. Protect the second well, and hand traverse under the roof. You don't so much pull the roof as you scoot around the left end of it and arrive rather abruptly on a small grassy ledge. The exposure is kind of wild, and it is great climbing for the grade (5.7). Small stuff builds a nice anchor here. 140'.

P2: Not as much fun, but you're already there, so here goes - the 5.6 version goes left around a corner, consult Rossiter, et al. The somewhat more exciting 5.8 option works up and right off the belay to an 'overlap' where you fish in a dicey nut at a crumbly, flaring crack. Pull the one 5.8 move onto the face above, sling a big flake and then cruise the easy, knobby face climbing to the top. There is no gear for the last 30-40', but the climbing is easy. I suspect that with long runners and a 60m rope you could do this route as one pitch, which would be great pitch as P2 is easy and you waste time at the belay.

Walk of to the NE and gain a trail back around to the bottom of Batman Rock.

Protection

Standard rack, no pieces larger than a #3 Camalot, mostly midsize stuff.

Photos