Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 37,228 total · 162/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

UPDATE: on 10/1/2017 a RMNP climbing ranger contacted me and informed me that there was a fatality on this route over the weekend, and there have been numerous accidents on the first pitch in the past as well. He asked that I insert the following edits into the description regarding pitch one:

1. This pitch is mildly run-out at the grade, aka PG-13.
2. This pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, mainly due to climbers getting off route (climbing too far right) and/or falling at the runout sections.
3. The route finding on P1 is tricky. Look for the line of least resistance, which is generally straight up and NOT way out right.
4. This pitch is not a good first lead for climbers breaking into this grade, or for climbers new to Lumpy. Expect it to feel tough for 5.6.


This is a great moderate climb to an exciting summit. It is the first lead for many Lumpy climbers. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock, and find the Batman Pinnacle (visible from the parking lot), which caps a long slab leading up to the SW side of Batman Rock; steeper rocks lie adjacent on the left. Hike up talus to the base of the slab.

P1 - climb easy, well-featured rock, aiming for a platform right of a gully but left of a left-leaning, right-facing ramp, 120'.

P2 - step right, into the 5.4 ramp; belay at its top, or combine with the next pitch (180'). Variation: climb the steep slab and seam directly above the belay to meet the ramp (5.8 R).

P3 - climb the left (5.6) or right (5.7) of two good cracks, and belay above a short chimney.

P4 - surmount a steep, short corner above the belay, and climb huge, tilted ledges up and right to the summit (5.4), 75'.

Descent: rappel (50m rope) to the east from a fixed anchor, then scramble very carefully further east and survey for a spot to begin heading back right to the base. One can also do a couple more rappels from trees down the gully directly east of the climb (somewhat annoying and NOT recommended).

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot.

Photos