Avg: 2.8 from 225 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||42,543 total · 161/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
1. This pitch is mildly run-out at the grade, aka PG-13.
2. This pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, mainly due to climbers getting off route (climbing too far right) and/or falling at the runout sections.
3. The route finding on P1 is tricky. Look for the line of least resistance, which is generally straight up and NOT way out right.
4. This pitch is not a good first lead for climbers breaking into this grade, or for climbers new to Lumpy. Expect it to feel tough for 5.6.
This is a great moderate climb to an exciting summit. It is the first lead for many Lumpy climbers. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock, and find the Batman Pinnacle (visible from the parking lot), which caps a long slab leading up to the SW side of Batman Rock; steeper rocks lie adjacent on the left. Hike up talus to the base of the slab.
P1 - climb easy, well-featured rock, aiming for a platform right of a gully but left of a left-leaning, right-facing ramp, 120'.
P2 - step right, into the 5.4 ramp; belay at its top, or combine with the next pitch (180'). Variation: climb the steep slab and seam directly above the belay to meet the ramp (5.8 R).
P3 - climb the left (5.6) or right (5.7) of two good cracks, and belay above a short chimney.
P4 - surmount a steep, short corner above the belay, and climb huge, tilted ledges up and right to the summit (5.4), 75'.
Descent: rappel (50m rope) to the east from a fixed anchor, then scramble very carefully further east and survey for a spot to begin heading back right to the base. One can also do a couple more rappels from trees down the gully directly east of the climb (somewhat annoying and NOT recommended).