Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 35,432 total · 159/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


UPDATE: on 10/1/2017 a RMNP climbing ranger contacted me and informed me that there was a fatality on this route over the weekend, and there have been numerous accidents on the first pitch in the past as well. He asked that I insert the following edits into the description regarding pitch one:

1. This pitch is mildly run-out at the grade, aka PG-13.
2. This pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, mainly due to climbers getting off route (climbing too far right) and/or falling at the runout sections.
3. The route finding on P1 is tricky. Look for the line of least resistance, which is generally straight up and NOT way out right.
4. This pitch is not a good first lead for climbers breaking into this grade, or for climbers new to Lumpy. Expect it to feel tough for 5.6.

This is a great moderate climb to an exciting summit. It is the first lead for many Lumpy climbers. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock, and find the Batman Pinnacle (visible from the parking lot), which caps a long slab leading up to the SW side of Batman Rock; steeper rocks lie adjacent on the left. Hike up talus to the base of the slab.

P1 - climb easy, well-featured rock, aiming for a platform right of a gully but left of a left-leaning, right-facing ramp, 120'.

P2 - step right, into the 5.4 ramp; belay at its top, or combine with the next pitch (180'). Variation: climb the steep slab and seam directly above the belay to meet the ramp (5.8 R).

P3 - climb the left (5.6) or right (5.7) of two good cracks, and belay above a short chimney.

P4 - surmount a steep, short corner above the belay, and climb huge, tilted ledges up and right to the summit (5.4), 75'.

Descent: rappel (50m rope) to the east from a fixed anchor, then scramble very carefully further east and survey for a spot to begin heading back right to the base. One can also do a couple more rappels from trees down the gully directly east of the climb (somewhat annoying and NOT recommended).


Standard rack to a #3 Camalot.
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
It is possible to do this climb in 2 pitches with a 60m rope. At the ledge at the end of the 1st pitch, head up to the left in a wide crack. The second pitch face climbs up and right to join the 3rd pitch. A direct line up the summit block must be taken to make it. This variation is useful when you are behind a slower party. Jun 25, 2001
Descent: The gully is no fun. After rapping from the top, there are two trees in the gully with slings and metal rings to rappel from. It's possible to downclimb most of the gully except for the final 20 ft., which was way too hard for me to downclimb. I would just suggest making the first rappel from the top and then walking farther east before heading down. Mike. Jan 14, 2002
Good descent, if you haven't left anything at the base, is to do the short rap off the summit (or downclimb north or west if you soloed), then third class up either side of Batman Rock and take the approach trail down. Third classing around the east side of Batman involves a short fifth class boulder problem -- gullies on the west side are easier -- don't take the gully closest to Batman but one to the left. Jun 11, 2002
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Get there early, at 8 am we were 5th in line. I'm thinking date climb here. The start of P3, the crux slot, requires some thought, and a long reach helps, but my shorter partner had no problem. I recommend a short hike over to the east side of Batman Rock after this route/rappel to Hand Over Hand or Globs of Blobs for more 7ish stuff. Jul 28, 2002
This was my first ever trad lead and it was an experience. If you can climb 5.9/10 sport, you will have zero problems with this route. My buddy and I (both from Nebraska) gave it a try, and we more or less walked up it. A quick question though, from the belay ledge at the top of p4, we went around to the side of the pinnacle(left of it looking from the ground) and tried to summit from there, but we couldn't find the line. Do you go straight up from the belay or were we right and just not able to find our way? Thanks and enjoy everyone! Sep 3, 2002
A great finish to the climb is to rap or downclimb from the summit into the notch between Batman Pinnacle and Batman rock and finish to the top of Batman Rock via Summer Breeze. It is the very obvious finger crack that leads to the small pine. Then take the short hand crack to easier ground then on to the summit. No harder than 5.7-. I then take the descent route down to the base of Batman Rock and climb there before heading back to the backpacks. To get to the base of Batman Pinnacle pass under the east face of Batman Rock and follow a faint path on down. Jun 19, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
We found it very easy and natural to combine pitches 2 and 3.

The climb appears to still be very popular. We were first on the rock today, and there were four people at the base when we were starting the p2/3 combo, and another five or six had arrived by the time we finished. Aug 16, 2003
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
I've climbed this route twice in the past 9 months...a great route! In fact, it was my first multi-pitch climb 5 years ago (climbed it with a guide). It was nice to go out and free it with my climbing buddies...it is kind of like coming full circle! Anyway, one of the bolts on top of the pinnacle (the one to the rappellers right), the nut holding the hanger on the bolt is a bit loose. I tightened it to the best of my ability with a leatherman last year, and it appeared loose again on 5/23. I hand tightened it, and thought everyone should be aware. Also, the chains up there aren't well equalized, all of your weight seems to be resting on that right-most bolt. Be careful on the downclimb in the gully! Jun 7, 2004
Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully. Jun 12, 2004
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Great climb but a bit of a huffer and puffer (and somewhat confusing) of an approach if that is the only route you intend on doing up there. We easily did the route in 3 pitches. Pitch one (somewhat run-out) to an obvious right facing dihedral and belayed just around the corner to keep an eye on second. Pitch two up to the standard ledge before final pitch. Tricky move for 5.4 to get out of there and up on to the top. The descent is not much fun down the east gully. Couple of rappel stations off trees which we didn't need (look left for an easier descent at the second tree belay), but still time consuming to get out of there. Jun 18, 2004
A better alternative to rappeling to the east or down climbing is simply to do the first rappel off of the summit (15m) and then walk/traverse west for 75 yards to a gully which can be descended (2nd class) to the ground and back to the base of the climb. Very easy with only the summit rappel required. Enjoy. Dec 4, 2004
One more comment on the DESCENT. It is possible to rap the 30' to the notch between the pinnacle and Batman Rock then scramble west briefly and then south down towards the base. Just as you reach the Batman Flake the angle increases and there is a rap station. Rap less than 80' to more slings around a horn. When pulling your ropes here, fling them aggressively to keep them clear of the chimney. The final rap from the horn is fairly short. All single rope rappels with a 50 meter. This will put you right back at the base with no obnoxious walk off. Enjoy. Sep 12, 2005
Andrew Ingraham
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Did this route yesterday, took up a buddy who had only been climbing one time previously. I think I started pitch one too far to the right and ended up standing about 15ft above my last piece of gear and some slabby moves before making it to a big natural anchor. After that it was pretty straight forward, you can easily combine pitch two and three (which seemed to make more sense than putting up a belay between the two). One more easy pitch takes you to the top where you can rap about 30ft, then make a couple of easy down climbs to the gully on the east which ended up putting us right back at the packs, I was amazed out how short the walk off was. Feb 27, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Warning!!! "Big Loose Rock near Batman Pinnacle. There is a loose rock half the size of a refrigerator immediately below the first large tree (it was actually touching the tree before it came loose) at the top of the gully to the east of Batman Pinnacle. This is one of the suggested rappel routes down from the pinnacle and it just came loose. Until it is knocked loose, everybody should avoid rappeling over it or into the gully below it."

This was submitted as a feedback for the website annonymously but with an email address.

Addendum: apparently an accident occurred where a climber sustained an open leg fracture and required a rescue. There may be loose rock in the vicinity. BEWARE! Jul 23, 2007
I climbed this route on Sept 16, and left my helmet on the summit! If you find it please call me at 303-507-1562. My name is James. Thanks! Sep 17, 2007
Debbie Vischer
Debbie Vischer   Loveland
Partner and I did this route in 2 pitches (using 60M rope). No issue with rope drag. Jan 21, 2009
Kingston, NY
tdavidock   Kingston, NY
Climbed this on the 4th of July with my buddy Matt. Matt linked the first two pitches and I led what would be the third (loved the fun crack moves). We rapped off the back and down climbed to the trail (easy walk-off). Would definitely recommend doing this if you don't mind a pretty steep accent (Welcome to Lumpy). Jul 8, 2009
Miles H  
More descent beta: Rap off the pinnacle to hit the ground between a large pine tree and Batman Rock. You are heading towards a dead tree near Batman Rock after the rap. You should see 1 or 2 cairns close by when you pull your rope. Follow the cairns to the left. Climb up a slot on the left towards Batman Rock. Continue left along the base of Batman Rock and now you can follow easier ground and cairns down and right back to the base of the climb. Aug 3, 2009
Last week on Thursday, August 6 I had to leave a rope rigged to a tree near the top of the gully to the left of Batman and Robin. If you find this rope, can you please contact me through the site? We were caught up there after dark and could not find out way down and had to use a full rope length to make it to the ground. I can pay you shipping to get it back to me.

I am also not sure if the rope is even good anymore as it got a lot of tree sap on it.

Anybody doing this route should be advised finding the descent route is very difficult. We couldn't find it and then night fell, we had to bail, leaving my fairly new rope :( Aug 9, 2009
Amos Patrick
Estes Park
Amos Patrick   Estes Park
Did this route yesterday. The descent is not too hard (at least in the daylight!). Here is what we did, however it should be noted that we did not leave anything at the base.

Rap off the east side of the pinnacle. Keep rapping until you land on a ledge with two large pine trees. ~70 feet.

Coil the rope, put on your tennies, and keep heading east. There are several huge cairns to follow.

After about 100 yards you have to pull off a V0 boulder problem into a narrow slot. It is short and the landing is safe.

Keep following cairns. Eventually you pass under Batman rock and start heading down its approach trail. Sep 1, 2009
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
Tits McGee   Boulder, CO
On the descent, installed new "bomber" rap anchor in between tree rappels.... Look for the Fixed Log! Oct 5, 2009
Paul Szymanski
Park Ridge, Illinois
  5.6 PG13
Paul Szymanski   Park Ridge, Illinois
  5.6 PG13
The approach is not fun, but the route is great. It is a perfect route for someone who just started to lead multi-pitch routes. This is definitely a classic and 4 star route. Every pitch is fun and safe. The belay stations are bomber proof. You should be very careful during the rappels because of the loose rocks. Sep 26, 2010
Andy Novak
Bailey, CO
Andy Novak   Bailey, CO
As per the goatboywonder's advice, there is ONLY ONE RAP on the decent, off the top of the pinnacle. if you are rapping off tress or logs (?) you are SCREWING UP. Keep heading East along the base of Batman Rock then down an easy trail and you will arrive at your packs without the dangerous, chossy, and highly impactful gully descent that most people who don't know any better seem to be using these days. Oct 3, 2010
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
Tits McGee   Boulder, CO
The only thing I left behind was a big log with rocks stacked around it - no tat or rings, just rapped straight off the log. I was joking when I said it was a "bomber anchor." Sorry if I missed the trail on my first time in the area - won't happen again, it was getting dark and starting to snow. Dec 5, 2010
Jeb Tilly
Jeb Tilly   Boulder
If you're comfortable soloing, this is the highlight of one of the best long run/climb romps on the Ridge. You can start with an ascent of Rock One, walk from the top of it to the base of the Pin Route on Twin Owls, scoot up that, then down the Bowels, then head uphill to the ridge itself, and follow that til you can drop down into the gully where the Tree Route is. Climb that (5.5) and continue down to the trail beneath Checkboard which leads to the boulderfield approach to Batman and Robin. Summit the pinnacle, downclimb into the notch and climb Summer Breeze to the summit of Batman Rock and the walkoff. So fun. May 12, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Just make sure that the route(s) are open for climbing. The penalty for climbing when they are closed is stiff. May 12, 2011
I highly recommend NOT descending via the gully that is directly to the east (climber's right) of the Batman and Robin pinnacle. Instead, (after the rappel off of the pinnacle), follow the face farther east until you reach an extremely obvious walk off. You can walk down safely and hook back to the right (facing downhill) to grab your stuff. Just keep heading east along the face and you will definitely find the walk off. As someone mentioned, there is a bouldering move at one point as you work east, but it is a plenty safe distance from the cliff edge and is nothing to worry about. Jul 13, 2011
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Great climb with really good gear and surprising exposure! Note: I assumed there would be fixed belay anchors and there are none...so be ready to build anchors (the ledges are good though). Also, the guidebook says 4 pitches, but we easily did it with 3; however, beware of rope drag...and someone has put a new blue sling in the gully on the before mentioned tree if you care to rappel all the way down, but please note that using a 70m rope just touched the ground from that tree. Jun 21, 2012
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
Why did you assume there would be fixed anchors? In general, that's never a good assumption unless you're climbing at a predominantly sport area or have concrete, reliable information that there are fixed anchors. Jun 21, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I agree with Charles. I don't think I have ever come across fixed belay anchors in Lumpy. Jun 22, 2012
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Granted I have little experience on Lumpy and usually assume on well traveled routes there will be fixed gear; HOWEVER, I am always prepared for there not to be. BTW, there are routes with fixed anchors on Lumpy example: Melvin's Wheel. Jun 26, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, if you go to Lumpy expecting fixed anchors, you have a high probability of disappointment. Jun 26, 2012
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Taken under advisement thanks...(perhaps I was hoping more than assuming). Jun 26, 2012
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
No fixed anchor, but if you belay where I did, you can close your eyes and throw a hex toward the rock and chances are good you'll have a bomber anchor. Jul 6, 2012
Dave Bn
Boise, ID
Dave Bn   Boise, ID
Was carrying a #4 C4 in the pack for another route we intended to do that day and ended up pulling it out for the top of the P1 belay. Seemed to fit in better than any other pieces and I wanted my one #3 with me for the next pitch. Aug 19, 2013
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
The 5.8 R seam at the top of P1 offers great climbing and is a good way to add some spice to this wonderful moderate. Aug 20, 2013
Mountain Matt
Boulder, CO
Mountain Matt   Boulder, CO
If you lost a rope bag at the base of B&R yesterday 8/16/14, I've got it. Please PM me. Hope to get it back to you. Aug 17, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is so boring for a so-called "classic". It just happens to be easy, user-friendly, and has good views from the top.

I've done it twice, and it felt so anti-climactic both times. Sep 26, 2014
Colin Lee  
We also did this route in 2 pitches with a 60m rope, standard rack, and no need for route variations. Newer leaders may not want to run the rope out like this if they don't control for drag, but it wasn't bad for me. Also did Summer Breeze in 1 pitch, again with 60m rope and standard rack. Nice 3-pitch day, worth doing despite claims that it's not classic. Sep 28, 2014
Andy Novak
Bailey, CO
Andy Novak   Bailey, CO
Had to leave a double length sling and biner on the first pitch due to a very fast moving rain storm. Would be awesome to get it back. Shoot me a PM for karma points! Thanks! Aug 2, 2015
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
Thought this route would be great for a beginner trad leader looking for some hand crack experience. I thought it was 5.6, but it definitely required thoughtfulness with the placements and movement, but that might also be because this was my first time climbing in Lumpy.

You can get through this without a #4, but I was happy I brought it. I placed it in the belay of the first pitch and in the left crack / chimney near the top of the 3rd pitch (my favorite part). I also placed a fair number of tricams, but you can probably make do without. Aug 21, 2016
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Rap stations in the gully east of the pinnacle are in good condition. Not sure why a 3 rappel descent isn't recommended, since it effectively puts you at the base without walking? Anyway, rappel 60m from the summit, scramble down to next anchor at large pine tree, rappel 40m to another tree skier's left, rappel 20m to the ground, and walk 30m to the base of the formation. Sep 24, 2016