Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.92857, -105.28676 |
| FA: | L. Dalke & B. Chase, 1965. |
| Page Views: | 3,586 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 27, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Per Daniel Kat: warning: there is a ~6' tall section of rock in the crack that moves when touched. It would be hard to climb without using this rock.
This route is a clean, right-facing dihedral parallel to and just right of the climb Sunrider.
Approach as for Sunrider, then climb the obvious dihedral to the right.
Climb the dihedral through hand-to-off-fist moves placing good gear along the way. This is a fun route of jamming, stemming, and lie-backs.
A single set of cams should be sufficient for a strong leader, but a double set of cams would be better if you are not strong at 5.9 and want to protect the more closely.
To descend, belay over from the top to rig a rap from the top of Sunrider, or scramble up to the southwest to the rough trail down to the Northwest from up above Upper Peanuts Wall.



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