Monkey See, Monkey Do (Broken)

Monkey See, Monkey Do only works for some monkeys. The Monkey House wall contains a short sector with a large roof 30 - 35 feet above the talus. Presently, a single route runs through the middle of the roof and this is Monkey See, Monkey Do. If you look at doing this route, bear in mind that looks can be deceiving. The roof on Monkey See, Monkey Do looks intimidating, while the slab approach looks tweaker but casual. Pull up off the talus for a clip just before a foot wide overlap, thin finger-crimps and a long reach will just snag a second clip, a crux in its own right. Pull the 5.12b crux following the second bolt as a left angling finger traverse on disappearing feet. Breathe easy from here on out because all of the difficult climbing can be disposed of in the first 15 feet off the ground. No beta for the roof except to say that it is well protected; I felt that the conventional long sling below the roof was not even essential given the placement of bolts on this route. Pull up over the roof on.... No more beta. If you can't dig this move, why climb? Two stars for the continuity, good stone, great finish, and the tricky finger-intensive start. Let's all chant another mantra for the Master of Clear Creek, Alan -The-Bolting-Fiend- Nelson.

QDs only. This 50 foot route needs only half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.