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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Dave Montgomery & Lisa Stern, 4/14
Page Views: 2,788 total, 63/month
Shared By: Monty on Apr 17, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Though it's only a variation to Convicted Felon, it is quite good! If you're a fan of thin face climbing, this is not to be missed. It's hard to determine the grade, but it is definitely a notch or two harder than Convicted Felon.

Start up Convicted Felon for the first 4 bolts, then step right to a ledge. Crimp and finesse your way up the face for 4 bolts then step back left to the anchor on top of Convicted Felon.

Location

This is between Convicted Felon and Punishment for Shoplifting.

Protection

8 bolts + anchor.

Photos

Michael Bukowski
  5.12d
Michael Bukowski  
  5.12d
Great route, great moves, solid. Mar 19, 2017
What an awesome route! The no hands rest 1/3 of the way up, but the route is relentless above the rest going straight from crux one into crux two. The second crux is the hardest. I tried twice today. Got it with only one fall on the second go. Endurance is going to be an issue, because after the rest is very sustained and small.

SPOILER BETA ALERT: I am 6 feet tall with a zero ape index. There are three consecutive vertical holds in a seem at the high crux...I go left hand to the first hold, fight the barndoor with a left foot while going up to hold #2 with the right hand, go out left to the sharp crimp, reposition feet including the high right foot, and make a big move to the jug with a left hand. Dec 1, 2016
Laura Capps
  5.12c
Laura Capps  
  5.12c
Really great route! Excellent crimps with some subtle footwork and body position up top. Thanks for putting this one up, Dave! Definitely a favorite in the canyon. Oct 27, 2015
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12c
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12c
This has to be one of the best 12s in the canyon. Better and tougher than Convicted Felon. Those crimps are so cool! Thanks to the the FA team for the find. Oct 20, 2015
Great crimping sequence on solid rock. Really enjoyed this addition to the crag. Oct 13, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Glad to hear people are diggin' this line! Jul 29, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Classic. Hard to believe that this line just went in recently. When lowering from the anchors of the 5.10 next to it, there had always been an obvious line here for viewing as you lower. Bullet hard stone, cool little crimps and grips with a fun crux sequence. Really great route and thanks for the new addition to an already fantastic crag! Jul 28, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12+
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12+
Stellar route I can't believe this went in so recently. Great rock with technical climbing on crimps that culminates with an awesome move to a bucket. Classic one of the better pitches in Clear Creek, IMHO. Jul 22, 2014
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Got on this route last night and had three good burns on it. It was not until the last burn did I figure out the crux sequence. I think 12c is about right, but I can't confirm until I send it using the beta and I am fresh. Jun 18, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12c
Wow! What a great variation to a great route. After the no hands rest halfway, there isn't a single hold that's bigger than a sharp crimp, and the stone is immaculate. Hard to grade a route like this, but definitely a grade harder than Convicted Felon. The easier end of 12c is appropriate. Thanks, Dave! Apr 18, 2014