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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Richard Wright, September, 1999
Page Views: 1,286 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Monkey Shine climbs the long slab immediately to the right of The Sprawl. The slab actually defines the cut that separates The Monkey House proper from the uphill sector that has the Death Block above and Home Boy Bonanza.

Run the slab up to a small roof, pull this on the right, and chase some more bolts. There is a loose block jammed into a slot at the roof. This can be pulled, perhaps, but every time I went up to do so, far too many people were below to make this a safe proposition. Yank it if you can, but the block is stable and it does not need to be pulled to enjoy the climb. There is a slightly tricky crux just before the anchor.

Protection

QD only. This 95 foot route needs a 60m rope to descend and about a dozen draws. There is a double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Some loose flakes and plenty of guano. Lots of lichen on the right side down low. Obviously doesn't get much traffic. I think this route is more heady than anything. The hard crux at the top is safely bolted though. May 10, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.10
The new book calls this 5.9! It was hard, dirty, and not the casual warmup I was looking for. I thought Face Full of Bush was way easier than this.... Jun 4, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Anchors have been replaced and the lowest bolt re-installed. Some more brushing has cleaned things up a bit. This is the third set of anchors placed here, and while MS is not a great route, it is the only warm up here and it would be nice if folks just left the gear alone. Apr 25, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Thanks, Guy. I'll run up here when I get a chance and see if replacement makes any sense. Sounds like it might be okay (?). Apr 19, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Richard, I was up there last weekend, and there are two open shuts at the top of the wall. Apr 18, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Marshall - I only now noticed the comment about missing anchors. If they are still missing, then I can get them reinstalled. Any idea if they are indeed still missing? Apr 17, 2003
THIS ROUTE HAS NO ANCHORS!!! IT CAN BE TOPPED OUT, BUT IT WAS A RUDE, RISE AND SHINE GETTING DOWN. SO YOU CRAZY KIDS BE CAREFUL!!! DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THE BOLTS AT THE TOP??? Sep 25, 2001