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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 2,283 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Punishment for Shoplifting starts 15 - 20 feet left of the blackish water streak that has Psycho Hose Beast running right up it. A slightly airy first clip with a burly move launches the route. Follow up a corner/seam system for six or seven clips on great stone, well protected, and equipped with a host of good moves. Edges and laybacks. The exit at the top of the corner/seam seemed a bit spooky inasmuch as the moves were a bit in-obvious, however, a near horizontal crack just below the anchors will provide a fine answer for the finish, if you look around for the feet. This fine line is well worth two stars, and well worth the short hike.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Good route. The crux is after the 1st bolt, although the finish is not obvious. There is lots of deciphering for such a short route. Full value. Mar 5, 2002
Has anyone been on the route directly to the left of this route? It is a great route, slightly overhanging at the bottom to a sweet face crux at the top. 8 bolts to anchors. Probably 12d? Anyone? Jun 30, 2002
richard magill
  5.10d
richard magill  
  5.10d
Fun and a bit spooky in places. Lots of slightly, slopey holds. Sep 9, 2004
richard magill
  5.10d
richard magill  
  5.10d
I also got on the 12 just left of this route. Great line: 3 stars. Rolofson's guide lists it as a "5.12? project". I was thinking 12b or 12c, but I don't know - it has a wicked crux.

Does anyone know the name or ostensible rating or whether or not it is still a project? It seems unlikely that it hasn't been sent yet. I didn't send it - but I will soon. Sep 9, 2004
Greaser  
Richard, it has been red pointed, I sent it a few years ago (if we are talking about the same route) and I'm sure others have done so as well. [Equivalent] to a good [Shelf Road] 12b to me (not as hard as Oxamoxa, though). I am 6' with a slight positive ape index and it did make me stretch a bit. Great route. Sep 9, 2004
desbien
seattle,wa
  5.11a
desbien   seattle,wa
  5.11a
Lots of deciphering. Easy to get pumped out on the not so obvious finish. Not nearly as fun as Reefer Madness down the slope or Schwing Salute. Apr 8, 2008
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.10d
dan scales   Denver, CO
  5.10d
Ok climb. Got on it today, was pretty wet at the ledge traverse. Scared me a little, heady. All in all, fun. Apr 24, 2009
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10d
That last traverse was scary! Damn! May 3, 2011
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.10d
Ya, the traverse got me spooked as well. Super fun, do it! Apr 13, 2012
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
A bolt needs to be added to this route. It is after the bolt after the ledge. You clip the first bolt safely, but then there is a little more than an 8 foot run to the next bolt. Not hard climbing, but if you're climbing this grade, you WILL hit the ledge and deck. Not fun to do! A simple addition of a bolt would boost this route from a bomb to probably a 2 or 3 star route! Sep 28, 2015
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Man, I agree. I have done this one a few times and always really dislike that part. I usually bring a yellow or maybe red Alien. It's not hard there but kind of not super solid either. Sep 29, 2015
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
  5.11a
I'd have to agree. This routes needs to be better protected at the start, it's asking for someone to get hurt. Think it's a little hard for the grade also. It's either hard or the movement is awkward enough that it feels harder. Aug 12, 2017

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