Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard M. Wright, September, 1999
Page Views: 1,456 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

Monkey Business begins just where the wash that forms the base of the Monkey House starts to steepen up to the chockstone. About 70 ft below the huge chock stone that fills the wash, Monkey Business starts up the slab about 10 ft left of Monkey Puzzle. Run up the slab at 5.9 climbing on great Clear Creek stone, pass an awkward fin, and waltz on up to gain a flat ledge below the looming roof system above. You could, in principle, walk off here. However, Monkey Business delivers the business by surmounting an awkward block with a long stem to gain a difficult bulge with a key, and I must say natural, pocket. Awkward and reachy moves left and above the pocket leads to a thin seam with virtually no feet. Still not over yet, the finish on Monkey Business has been done (improperly) on the right and more user friendly on the left. A long reach left into a right facing corner will deliver a fine clipping stance, but the feet are still padding about for some friction on a holdless face. Two stars for the fine Clear Creek stone, good climbing moves, and the intricate sequence through the block at the top.

Protection

QD only. This 100 ft route needs 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Bring a 60 m rope for descent.

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