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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Greg Purnell, 1999
Page Views: 1,318 total · 6/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route is technically at the Monkey House, which is slightly above and to the left of The Wall of the '90s about 100ft. Start the route from on top of a short, 4th class ledge. The route is short, powerful, and overhanging. Every move is difficult and interesting to decipher. The rating is solid, especially as a key hold has broken, yielding even less purchase than before. Have fun but bring an attentive belayer, especially for the attention-grabbing moves between the slightly run-out 2 and 3 bolts.

Protection

The route is only 3 bolts long with a 2 bolt anchor. However, the belayer should certainly clip himself into the single bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb.

Photos

Gregg - Killer route. You can actually belay from the ground, if the leader clips a lond draw in the "belay anchor" first, giving this a better lead. Have a good time. Jan 1, 2001
First, I would like to thank you for putting up this site. I think you have done a great job in doing so. But I am wondering why you do not add pictures of the walls and routes? unless I am an idiot and do not know how to access them. If I am mistaken, please let me know. Much Thanks! super J Jun 3, 2001
Quinn Stevens
Denver, CO
 
Quinn Stevens   Denver, CO
 
Today I finally bagged this route, my enemy for some time now. Very seldom will you find more solid, continuous climbing packed into one route. As aforementioned, a hold broke just above the second bolt. Here, I feel, is the technical crux- tossing from the crappy, right side pull to a small crimp sidepull with your left hand. I fell after making this move on redpoint three times, twice running out of gas with my hand an inch shy of the finishing jug. This is a 12c you can sink your teeth into, and despite hating the route from time to time, I highly recommend it. Aug 2, 2001
Quinn Stevens
Denver, CO
 
Quinn Stevens   Denver, CO
 
Upon re-reading my comment, I realized how stupid I sound. I think I meant to say something about the 'solid, continuous climbing...' particularly for such a short route. If this only continued for another 7 bolts or so it would be killer! Thanks to Gregg for such a good addition to the wall. Dec 12, 2001
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Great route. I felt like the top out was the crux. Unless I completely missed something. The rest of the route was powerful but easy to decipher and the moves pretty obvious. Jul 26, 2012
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I put fixed draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts and also added biners to the anchors so they are easier to clip.

Enjoy. This is a great route packed into a small area. Jul 30, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12c
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12c
Hey Mike, I felt the same about the top until I found the really good crimp that has apparently never been used before. Seemed to work a lot better for me, but we'll see when I get there from the ground. Definitely sustained and packs a punch for a shorty. Ill probably add a quick-link to the anchor so the angle between bolts is less severe. Sep 10, 2012
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Left hand or right hand crimp. The move I was gunning for was a right hand pinch type thing that if you get your thumb on it, is ok, but low %. May 28, 2013
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
 
Ethan Davis   Hailey, ID
 
A large horn between bolt 1 & 2 broke today. It seemed crucial at first, but what is now left is a bomber (but smaller) sidepull. I don't think it should change the grade as the crux comes higher. Jul 14, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route packs quite a punch for 3 bolts. Clipping the chains is hard, and I couldn't really find a sequence at the very end other then pulling on a bunch of choss. Even though draws were replaced a few years back, the dog bones looked fried from baking in the sun. They need to be replaced with either chains or Climb Tech PermaDraws to withstand the intense sun that this route gets. Be careful clipping, the ledge below makes both the second and third bolt very committing.... Oct 31, 2014

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