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Early Access
Routes in The Monkey House
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Ape Index S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fuck Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Fuzzy Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gneiss! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do (after the break) S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do (Broken) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.73978, -105.32146 |
| FA: | Richard M. Wright, Nevada Montagu, 1999. FFA: Nevada M. |
| Page Views: | 4,391 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 20, 2001 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Monkey Bars runs up the huge block before the cut through The Monkey House that divides The Monkey House proper from the block with The Sprawl on it (The Death Block). The climbing starts in the narrow wash before the huge chockstone that you stand on to start The Sprawl. There are four new routes in this sector between The Sprawl on the left and Monkey Puzzle on the right. Monkey Bars is the middle of the three roof routes. The climbing runs up to a multi-tiered roof system above on largely 5.9 climbing. An overhead clip before the roof can be had off a fine ledge with a no-hands rest. Power up the first roof for a 5.12a -5.12b crux that is very height-dependent. Several 5.11c power moves through the overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux at the last lip of the roof system. Pull the last roof, and get established on your feet for a chill, two more tenuous clips with in-obvious hands gains the anchor.
I give it two stars for the continuity, exposure, and great power moves.
Protection
14 (per Andy S) QDs plus a 2 bolt anchor only. This 80 foot route needs [now 14] quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60m rope is a good idea, and the route has not been checked with a 50m rope, so heads up on the descent.
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