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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard M. Wright, Nevada Montagu, 1999. FFA: Nevada M.
Page Views: 2,012 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Monkey Bars runs up the huge block before the cut through The Monkey House that divides The Monkey House proper from the block with The Sprawl on it (The Death Block). The climbing starts in the narrow wash before the huge chockstone that you stand on to start The Sprawl. There are four new routes in this sector between The Sprawl on the left and Monkey Puzzle on the right. Monkey Bars is the middle of the three roof routes. The climbing runs up to a multi-tiered roof system above on largely 5.9 climbing. An overhead clip before the roof can be had off a fine ledge with a no-hands rest. Power up the first roof for a 5.12a -5.12b crux that is very height dependent. Several 5.11c power moves through the overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux at the last lip of the roof system . Pull the last roof and get established on your feet for a chill, two more tenuous clips with in-obvious hands gains the anchor. Two stars for the continuity, exposure, and great power moves.

Protection

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 10-12 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is a good idea, and the route has not been checked with a 50 m rope, so heads up on the descent.

Photos

ScoJo
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
Someone knocked off a watermelon-sized block off of this while I was on Face Full of Bush (earlier this spring). It landed a few feet away from my belayer. Scary stuff!

Be careful while climbing this thing, and belayers should also consider where they stand while belaying. Apr 28, 2017
Mac Praetorius
boulder, co
Mac Praetorius   boulder, co
In the spirit of safety, I'll leave this here. That block Nate marked with an x is about to go. Today I gave it the knock test, and it sounded solid. So I gave it a tug to pull through that section, and it felt like it started to give. I think it could go with a couple more tugs, or it might hold. Mar 9, 2017
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I came across a fairly large, loose block just before establishing myself under the roof section. Maybe it's locked in there, but it would suck if it pulled out. I was fully hanging off it. I marked it. Just a heads up. Roof section was super fun and solid. Oct 16, 2016
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
I thought this route was well worth doing...would be harder if you're short, but I am surprised that this is 12a. I thought maybe soft 11d. It's a one move wonder with mainly 5.10 climbing for the rest of the climb. One mantel move that might be in the 11a region and one crux move that involves more precision than strength. Thunderclings anyone! Cool crux though and cool climb! :) May 7, 2015
Tom Lauren
Longmont, CO
Tom Lauren   Longmont, CO
Climbed this route yesterday. I didn't notice any loose holds. Also, I wasn't aware of any holds having broken off at the start of the steep, difficult climbing. I am 6'2" and felt that the grade of the route was somewhere around 5.12a. I think that getting established into the steep section could be more difficult for a shorter person. Nov 10, 2014
Great route. Super fun overhang, my favorite style of climbing. I am 6'1", and I think this made the crux considerably easier than it would have been if I was a bit shorter. Very fun! Aug 15, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Attempted this one yesterday, and was shut down at the beginning of the roof. If the correct beta is to set a left fist-jam in the crack under neath where the vertical meets the horizontal, reach around past the lip to a small "mail slot" with the right hand in a gaston position, match, buump right to a slot next to the bolt, then bump again to the obvious jug....I think there may have been a hold along, or near the lip that has broken off. Or maybe I was just a pansy, and unable/unwilling to pull through on what was clearly a harder sequence than the consensus. Whatever, the route up to the roof is worth doing, even if you don't pull the roof. Young Doug. Jul 28, 2008
Lee Landkamer
Golden, CO
Lee Landkamer   Golden, CO
Great route but there is a problem. As of 20-July-03 a large block several clips above the crux that forms a key hold has become dangerously loose. It desperately needs to be epoxyed but I do not have the expertise to do the job. It would be very ugly if that thing fell off. Jul 31, 2003