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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: K. Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,183 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A nice little line on the L third of the Wall of the Nineties. Just right of Punishment for Shoplifting (PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. Interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. Probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....

Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:

Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....

Protection

10 QDs + slings for the anchors.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
5.11b
A. Bandos   Broomfield
5.11b
Unfortunately it's very dirty on first third of climb. The second third is very fun moves through some horizontal edges. The roof is a very strenuous crank, but the moves are fun. Get on it if it's dry! Aug 3, 2016
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House. Jun 28, 2008