Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: K. Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,383 total · 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

A nice little line on the L third of the Wall of the Nineties. Just right of Punishment for Shoplifting (PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. Interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. Probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....

Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:

Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....

Protection

10 QDs + slings for the anchors.

Photos