Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,581 total, 9/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is a 2 bolt variation to Monkey Shine (5.10d) (actually vice versa). Start in a overhanging dihedral and make some fun stem moves to the apex of the roof. Make a big move to a crimp on the left, back right to a sloper, and a good crimp marks the end of the hard part.

This is a good route, if you are looking for your first 5.12 redpoint. The hard part is short and near the ground, while the rest of the route is 5.10.

Protection

Draws....

Photos

Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.12a
I thought this route was pretty fun with a unique crux. Note, if you blow the clip at bolt 3, you would need a very responsive belayer to keep you outta the dirt. The clip can be done fairly securely, but it's worth taking the time to find the best position to do so. The anchor is two open hooks without keepers. Nice line altogether! Sep 2, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.12a
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.12a
Mark is correct. ^^^^ Mar 5, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This is NOT a variation to Monkey Shine. Rather Monkey Puzzle is a variation to this.... Jun 4, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
The start to Monkey Pause is actually awkward and strange. There are a lot of 12a's in Shelf road with more straightforward moves that would make a more rewarding experience. Monkey Pause is certainly a good route, but like a lot of Alan Nelson's routes, this one needs a lot of power in the opening and the sequience through these moves is not all that easy to decipher. Pro is fine; you won't get hurt trying. Dec 5, 2003
This route is the route to send your first 12 on lead. The first two clips are the crux and if you get scared there and can easliy reach them with a stick clip. After the crux grerat route! Dec 5, 2003
Although the crux is low, the 5.10 roof is very fun. Huge holds and long moves keep your attention. The route after the roof is easier but I really enjoyed it. Don't psyche yourself out regarding the third clip, the climbing is easy. JM Aug 6, 2003