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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Purnell, October, 1999
Page Views: 2,950 total, 15/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Face Full of Bush (aka Greg's Roof) ascends the large, bulging roof system below The Sprawl and immediately left of Monkey Bars. It climbs the roof on its left side. The climbing in Face Full of Bush begins in the deep wash at a point just before the huge chock stone used to start The Sprawl. Fire up on some good positive edges at 5.9 /5.10 climbing to some yellow blocks that look a whole lot more loose than they really are. Chase the ramp above to the left through the bush and get situated below the overlaps of the roof, chill, you'll need it for the pump about to unleash. Head into the overlaps on big reaches to largely good holds as the roof gets steeper and steeper. Fire a thin seam on the right to gain the last roof problem and the chains a short way above. Two stars for the good rock, fine climbing moves, and the chance to haul through some steep stone right here at home. Face Full of Bush is pretty easy by Greg's usual standard. As for the name...well, what do you think? It's for the bush on the route.

Protection

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 10 - 11 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
Spookiest 5.10 sport I have done - especially the slab below the roof. I feel like this one is another hard 10d in the Monkey House, may be just a tad underrated. Aug 12, 2017
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
It's been a while since I have been spooked on a sport climb, but the traverse up high below the roof grabbed my attention! Nov 10, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Agree with Mr Biscoop (above ^^^). Jun 4, 2012
I thought that the crux was going from the last bolt to the anchor. The steep jug haul above the awkward slabby traverse to the left was fun and much easier than it at first appears. Oct 22, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10d
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10d
This is a must do in CCC. Super fun moves! Jun 4, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
One of my favorite 5.10 pitches in the canyon. Mar 17, 2010
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.10d
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.10d
WARNING:

4/29/09 The ample moisture of the last month seems to have loosened the X block between bolts 4 & 5. This caused it and also the two loose blocks below it to come off quite easily (the lower ones were actually holding the X block in). The blocks together were approximately 6' x 4' and more than a foot thick. It is still climbable and possibly easier through that section, but it is really dirty and there are a few small loosies left to go. These blocks left quite a divot at the base of the route, right where the belayer would be, so hopefully it is a little safer now. The X block will now rest in peace under a tree downhill of the climb. Apr 30, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
A very nice pitch. I found this one slightly more difficult than others in the canyon at the same grade; however, I believe the grade would hold in other CO. climbing areas. Wear a helmet for the bush! Young Doug. Jul 28, 2008
Perhaps my favorite 5.10 in CCC. It's long, has variety and culminates with a sustained, pumpy and tricky headwall. Mar 13, 2007
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Sorry, you are right about the grade. I checked my notes and Greg and I both gave it 10d. Sep 25, 2001
This is a great route with good holds and a strange traverse. Unclipping "drag" draws is a good idea. Moving to the chains is quite the fun move and I think makes the route. The rating is wrong, Richard, that should be 5.10d. Jogs don't make a climb a 5.11, just giving you a hard time, buddy! But it is only 5.10d. Marshall. Sep 25, 2001