Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979
Page Views: 1,281 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The rightmost route on the face.

Start from the top of a boulder, thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchors/rap station - 2 ropes needed for rappel.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
0.75" to 1" cam possibilities under the undercling after the crux. Jan 13, 2003
I can't resist sharing my recollection of the f.a.; Randy had to browbeat me into finishing the job- after putting in the first 2 bolts, drilled on lead of course with a hand drill and rather a lot of wingeing, I was so scared I wouldn't go back for two months! Apr 21, 2003
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
I think this route is a Josh Classic.

The setting, the moves, the runout...

must re-visit soon... Dec 3, 2008
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
After clipping the second bolt, back-clean the first. It'll save you some rope drag on the easy, but runout, top half. Also, there's a bolted rap station ontop of this climb. Have your follower trail second rope, or swing way out left to another set of anchors on the face. Nov 16, 2009