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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979
Page Views: 1,134 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The rightmost route on the face.

Start from the top of a boulder, thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchors/rap station - 2 ropes needed for rappel.

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
After clipping the second bolt, back-clean the first. It'll save you some rope drag on the easy, but runout, top half. Also, there's a bolted rap station ontop of this climb. Have your follower trail second rope, or swing way out left to another set of anchors on the face. Nov 16, 2009
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
I think this route is a Josh Classic.

The setting, the moves, the runout...

must re-visit soon... Dec 3, 2008
I can't resist sharing my recollection of the f.a.; Randy had to browbeat me into finishing the job- after putting in the first 2 bolts, drilled on lead of course with a hand drill and rather a lot of wingeing, I was so scared I wouldn't go back for two months! Apr 21, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
0.75" to 1" cam possibilities under the undercling after the crux. Jan 13, 2003