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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, February 1997
Page Views: 634 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This sustained slab route, like most of the routes on this side of Little Hunk, affords decent quality climbing and sometimes engaging moves but needs a bit more traffic to clean it up.

The 5.11 crux comes early in the vicinty of the 3rd/4th bolt but there's another tricky sequence (5.10+) at the 6th bolt and sustained 5.10 slab climbing with spaced bolts all the way to the top.

This is a technical and sustained slab route that is worthy of more attention and with more traffic it will clean up nicely (it may also make it a bit harder).

Location

Left side of Little Hunk's west face between Official Rubber Tester and Compassion of the Elephants.

Protection

10 bolts (5/16" and 3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

I suspect this one has indeed lost a few holds since the last comments in 2008, definitely the hardest 11c I've been on in the park. Flakes are still coming off. Interesting area to check out though, looking forward to going back to the wall next fall when temps go down. Apr 7, 2016
Bob Gaines  
 
The last bolt (the 11th) was doubled to make a rap anchor (<100 feet) some years ago when Kevin Powell and I replaced many of the bolts on Little Hunk's West face. Oct 20, 2008
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
An obscure but quality route that deserves more traffic. Oct 20, 2008