Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, February 1997
Page Views: 685 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This sustained slab route, like most of the routes on this side of Little Hunk, affords decent quality climbing and sometimes engaging moves but needs a bit more traffic to clean it up.

The 5.11 crux comes early in the vicinty of the 3rd/4th bolt but there's another tricky sequence (5.10+) at the 6th bolt and sustained 5.10 slab climbing with spaced bolts all the way to the top.

This is a technical and sustained slab route that is worthy of more attention and with more traffic it will clean up nicely (it may also make it a bit harder).

Location

Left side of Little Hunk's west face between Official Rubber Tester and Compassion of the Elephants.

Protection

10 bolts (5/16" and 3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.11c
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c
An obscure but quality route that deserves more traffic. Oct 20, 2008
Bob Gaines  
 
The last bolt (the 11th) was doubled to make a rap anchor (<100 feet) some years ago when Kevin Powell and I replaced many of the bolts on Little Hunk's West face. Oct 20, 2008
Ivan LaBianca
Redlands, CA
Ivan LaBianca   Redlands, CA
I suspect this one has indeed lost a few holds since the last comments in 2008, definitely the hardest 11c I've been on in the park. Flakes are still coming off. Interesting area to check out though, looking forward to going back to the wall next fall when temps go down. Apr 7, 2016