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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole and Marius Morsted, November 1979
Page Views: 661 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Approaching Little Hunk's southwest face from the Echo Rock Area one will notice a large flake leaning against the main face, which is where this route is located.

Start off a boulder near the left arete of the flake and climb past two bolts, traverse right midway, and finish up past two more bolts and a bit of a runout to the top. Descend by rapping off anchors on a ledge atop the route. Please note - A 50 meter rope just makes it down from anchors atop a ledge.

While the rock isn't the best Josh has to offer, the moves are good and the position on the flake is unique. Overall, a seldom done but worthy route for those who like J. Tree thin face/slab routes.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchor (all bolts are 3/8")

Photos

Shipp
laguna beach, ca
  5.11a
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.11a
First 5.11 in early 80's. Pretty gritty at the time but solid 5.11. I remember the first bolt being a tough clip - about 12" out-of-reach. Jan 19, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a R
Solid at 5.11a Feb 20, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a
I had all kinds of trouble getting going on this route, probably nerves.

Took a whipper just before clipping the last bolt, momentary lapse of concentration I think. Dec 25, 2003

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