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Top 40 To Middle Toilet
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British X
Avg: 1 from 5
votes
Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)
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Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Go for Broke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gun Shy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hot 100 TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Official Rubber Tester T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sky's the Limit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tin God T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trespassers will be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0272, -116.153 |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,092 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start roughly 75 feet right (east) from the very left end of the formation (this end of the cliff has the old road/trail that goes between Echo Tee Parking Area and Barker Dam). At the base of the cliff is a gap in the vegetation where this climbs starts.
Climb up a short slab to a very thin horizontal crack. Place some tiny nuts in opposition, then pull the bulge above (crux, harder if short) to gain the top of a flake and the first bolt. Continue generally straight up the face on decent scoops, passing a large, loose flake that can be slung to reach the second bolt near the top of the face. Climb past the second bolt onto the top. Go up and slightly right to a crack in a corner and set up a belay. While the climbing is relatively easy, a fall before the second bolt would likely be catastrophic.
To descend, walk down the low angled shoulder until it steepens, and then downclimb the slab (it's worth checking this out before doing any climbs that require this as a downclimb). Skittish climbers will likely be unwilling to do this descent without a rope.
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