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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Randy McDonald
Page Views: 514 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the left of the face. It is identified by a flake at the base of the climb (about 20 feet up, above an easy slab).

Head up to the flake and climb its righthand crack to the top of the flake. Steep tricky face moves lead to easy runout cruising. Moving from the final bolt is the crux and will make you stop and think.

A good introduction to the face.

Protection

Medium cams for the flake and belay, 3 bolts (3/8")
Andrew Ingals
Lake Forest
 
Andrew Ingals   Lake Forest
 
I climbed this route on 3 Feb 2017 and noticed the second to last bolt was a full on spinner! I had to hand tighten it before proceeding onward and upward. Not exactly confidence inspireing, I suppose, but certinaly added a hint of "acceptable" danger. Definitely felt a bit more difficult than 5.8, but then again, J Tree slab is a different beast in and of itself. ;) Mar 12, 2017
Woody Stark  
 
This route is badly sandbagged at eight. I give it 10a/b. If someone doubts this, go climb it; it's a fine route. It's possible, of course, that holds have broken off over the years. Dec 15, 2004