Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, December 2015.
Page Views: 596 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 16, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the right side of the main face, best approached from the base of Tin God/Abstract Roller Disco by scrambling up and left through boulders.

Begin at the highest boulder up and left from the start of Perverts in Power. This is about 75 feet to the right of Compassion of the Elephants.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy (unprotected class 4) ramp just beneath a prominent right-slanting crack and set up a belay at a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Sustained moves (10+) lead up and left past 6 bolts to a nice ledge and 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Climb easier slab (5.7+/5.8-) past 3 bolts to the top, and another 2-bolt anchor.

Two rappels from here (both less than 100 feet) get you back down to the base.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Maya L
Chicago, IL
Maya L   Chicago, IL
We didn't find the first pitch to be a 4th class, especially if one is not used to slabs. It's not protected, so it's more like soloing a 5.6-5.7 slab. Apr 9, 2018