Sky's the Limit
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0272, -116.153 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, December 2015. |
| Page Views: | 2,067 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Dec 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on the right side of the main face, which is best approached from the base of Abstract Roller Disco, by scrambling up and left through boulders. Begin at the highest boulder up and left from the start of Perverts in Power. This is about 75 feet to the right of Compassion of the Elephants.
Pitch 1: Climb an unprotected ramp (4th or easy 5th Class) just beneath a prominent right-slanting crack and set up a belay at a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Sustained moves (10+/11-) lead up and left past six bolts to a nice ledge and two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Climb easier slab (5.7+/5.8-) past three bolts to the top, and another two-bolt anchor.
Two rappels from here (both less than 100 feet) get you back down to the base.



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