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Trespassers will be Violated
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)
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Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Go for Broke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gun Shy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hot 100 TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Official Rubber Tester T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sky's the Limit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tin God T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trespassers will be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0272, -116.153 |
| FA: | Matt Cox & Spencer Lennard, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 3,953 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
On the large west face of Little Hunk is a very obvious right-leaning dike system. Trespassers follows the entire dike up and right to reach to top of the formation. It is easily the most obvious and compelling line on the formation and the first route done on the face.
A High School Junior named Matt Cox showed up with bolt kit in hand, ready to make the first ascent. But as Matt started up the dike, he soon found a bolt, then spotted 2 more. Thinking the route had already been climbed, Matt put the drill away and proceeded to climb toward the top. In the process, he kept it calm as he encountered the 10c crux, some 15+ feet out from the 2nd bolt.
Later, Matt and Spencer learned that the route had been bolted on rappel (considered very bad style back then) by climbers who intended to come back and add a few more bolts before trying to lead it. Matt's bold lead nixed their plans for a FA.
The route was named for an old "No Trespassing" sign found near the vicinity of Abstract Roller Disco and the feeling derived from leading the route. In the 1980s, Charles Cole and Steve Anderson added a new route that crossed Trespassers (Gun Shy). One of the bolts on Gun Shy now provides additional protection for the crux of Trespassers, making it an exciting, but reasonable lead.
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