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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Matt Cox & Spencer Lennard, 1974
Page Views: 1,779 total, 11/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the large west face of Little Hunk is an obvious rising dike system. Trespassers follows the entire dike up and right to reach to top of the formation. It is easily the most obvious and compelling line on the formation and the first route done on the face.

A High School Junior named Matt Cox showed showed up with bolt kit in hand, ready to make the first ascent. But as Matt started up the dike, he soon found a bolt, then spotted 2 more. Thinking the route had already been climbed, Matt put the drill away and proceeded to climb toward the top. In the process, he kept it calm as he encountered the 10c crux, some 15+ feet out from the 2nd bolt.

Later, Matt and Spencer learned that the route had been bolted on rappel (considered very bad style back then) by climbers who intended to come back and add a few more bolts before trying to lead it. Matt's bold lead nixed thier plans for a FA.

The route was named for an old "No Trespassing" sign found near the vicinity of Abstract Roller Disco and the feeling derived from leading the route. In the 1980s, Charles Cole and Steve Anderson added a new route that crossed Trespassers (Gun Shy). One of the bolts on Gun Shy now provides additional protection for the crux of Trespassers, making it an exciting, but reasonable lead.

Protection

4 bolts (use bolt on Gun Shy); Medium gear for anchor.
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
There is a reason you never see anyone on this route. Again today, full sun coolish day... completely empty of climbers. Beautiful from the desert floor.....beyond that..... desperate. Jan 3, 2015
Drewsky  
The 2nd bolt on this route is actually in rather poor condition as of February 2010. It appears to be a slightly missdrilled and rusted button head. It's probably alright, but if it pulled during a fall it would be a messy situation indeed. Otherwise, this climb is a heads-up but fairly enjoyable endeavor. Feb 14, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b R
This is a really good route, if, and it is a big IF, you like: traverses, runouts, and crunchy feet. The runout to the first bolt is mild eyeopener at about 30ft. The moves are easy, except for maybe two at the 20ft level, and then you get a bolt. After a few moves there is a knob you can tie off but it will probably never hold a fall. Clip another bolt and do the crux moves, and here you can clip a high bolt from the lame squeeze job that invades the route. This high bolt will save you about 3 feet off your fall should you go. Do a few moves with crunchy feet and no hands and clip another bolt. Whew! Now do a 50 foot runout to either the summit, or keep moving way up and right to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. A 70m rope will let you rap from these anchors to the ground.

Another option is when you are at the far end of the dike a two bolt anchor can be seen out to your right. It is possible to get to this anchor and belay there instead of finishing the route to the top. Also, it would be nice to have a follower who is solid at the grade, unless you carry a lot of gauze. Jan 13, 2008