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Abstract Roller Disco
5.11a PG13,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 7
votes
FA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole and Marius Morsted, November 1979
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Little Hunk
> Little Hunk - S…
> SW Face Left (Trespas…
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Approaching Little Hunk's southwest face from the Echo Rock Area one will notice a giant flake leaning against the main face, which is where this route is located. The giant flake is to the left of the Solarium.
Start off a boulder near the left arete of the giant flake and climb up to a second bolt. Move down and right from the second bolt, then go up and right past two more bolts and a bit of a runout to the top. Descend by rapping off anchors on a ledge atop the route. Use a 60-meter or longer rope to rappel from the anchor near the top.
While the rock isn't the best Josh has to offer, the moves are good and the position on the flake is unique. Overall, a seldom done but worthy route for those who like J. Tree thin face/slab routes.
Protection
4 bolts, chain anchor (all bolts are 3/8")
[Hide Photo] Al "Dude"Swanson contemplating the crux and potential swing on Abstract Roller Disco (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Al Swanson setting up to make the balancy high-step to the 2nd bolt of Abstract Roller Disco (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP
Big Bear Lake
Took a whipper just before clipping the last bolt, momentary lapse of concentration I think. Dec 25, 2003
laguna beach, ca