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Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)

Abstract Roller Disco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Compassion of the Elephants T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Connie's Big Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Crash Course T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeling Groovy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go For Broke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog Day T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perverts in Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sky's the Limit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyfall TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tin God T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 To Middle Toilet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Torturer's Apprentice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trespassers Will Be Violated T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Tony Osecki, February 1997
Page Views: 245 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin from boulders on the far right side of the great southwest face slab, up and left from the start of Perverts in Power. Climb 4th class up and right on a low-angle slab that steepens, with a few harder (5.8 R) friction moves leading up to the first bolt. (This is the original line; to lesson the seriousness of this section, you can now belay at the Sky's the Limit anchor, or clip it for pro).

Climb steeper face past 2 more bolts (5.10c) then cruise up easier slab climbing past 2 more bolts (5.7) to a small flake (2 to 3 inch pro). Continue up the slab to a belay ledge with a bolt anchor.

Descent: Two rappels (both less than 100 feet) will get you back down.

Alternately, solo off left across the top of the face (exposed class 3) and descend a smooth slab down the north shoulder (class 4).

Protection

Pro: 5 bolts and CDs from 2 to 3 inches.

The "R" rating is a warning for the unprotected moves (5.8 friction) of the original line just below the first bolt.

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