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Compassion of the Elephants

5.10c, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 13 votes
FA: Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - S… > SW Face Left (Trespas…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Start from the top of a boulder. Thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchors/rap station - 2 ropes needed for rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1980 something...<br>
<br>
 Kris Solem climbing The Compassion of The Elephants. Photo by Charlie Crist.
[Hide Photo] 1980 something... Kris Solem climbing The Compassion of The Elephants. Photo by Charlie Crist.
At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly bought Asolo Onsights!
[Hide Photo] At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly bought Asolo Onsights!
Compassion of the Elephants (5.10c R), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Compassion of the Elephants (5.10c R), Joshua Tree NP

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] 0.75" to 1" cam possibilities under the undercling after the crux. Jan 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] I can't resist sharing my recollection of the f.a.; Randy had to browbeat me into finishing the job- after putting in the first 2 bolts, drilled on lead of course with a hand drill and rather a lot of wingeing, I was so scared I wouldn't go back for two months! Apr 21, 2003
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I think this route is a Josh Classic.

The setting, the moves, the runout...

must re-visit soon... Dec 3, 2008
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] After clipping the second bolt, back-clean the first. It'll save you some rope drag on the easy, but runout, top half. Also, there's a bolted rap station on top of this climb. Have your follower trail second rope, or swing way out left to another set of anchors on the face. Nov 16, 2009