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Areas in United Kingdom

Channel Islands 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
England 646 / 77 / 215 / 186 / 2 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 1107
Scotland 243 / 21 / 13 / 87 / 9 / 0 / 2 / 7 / 358
Wales 64 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 70
Elevation: 1,700 ft
GPS: 54.419, -2.022 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

Description

Climbing in the United Kingdom offers a large variety of climbing, on a number of rock types in remote mountainous regions as well as many urban venues. The climbing is split into regions, with the main areas being England, Scotland and Wales. Each individual country is then separated into distinct climbing areas.

In addition to the climbs themselves climbers who are new to the area will be confronted with two, sometimes distressing things, the unique grading system, and the fickle British weather. The weather at many areas can change numerous times in a day, and rarely stays the same (good or bad) for long. When the weather is bad, you could visit one of the climbing walls dotted around, however, you will have a much better time visiting one of the many excellent pubs which are sure to be close at hand.

The grading system can be confusing to new comers, but when understood the combination of the technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, etc.) and the adjective grade (Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe, Extremely Severe which is subdivided into E1, E2, E3, E4, etc.)gives you a good understanding from the outset on the technical difficulty of the climb, its sustained nature, as well as the seriousness. In summary an E1 6a tell you that the route has probably only one 6a move, which is either close to the bottom of the climb or very well protected, while an E5 6a, tells you the route is sustained and could well be a serious lead.

Getting There

The easiest way is to fly into one of the major airports. Probably the most common will be London Heathrow. From there hire a car and tour around. Alternatively you can travel around using public transport (trains and buses), but youÂ’ll find that only works for certain areas, close to urban settlements.

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Classic Climbing Routes at United Kingdom

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Central Trinity
3 pitches
V4 6B
Not To Be Taken Away
Boulder
V8 7B
Deliverance
Boulder
A0 R
North Face of Uxbridge Road
Aid
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Little Chamonix
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Old Man of Stoer
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Dream of White Horses
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cemetery Gates
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Unconquerable
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man of Hoy
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Buttress.
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chequers Buttress
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Flying Buttress Direct
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fern Hill
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cenotaph Corner
Trad
Central Trinity Wales > Welsh winter clim… > Clogwyn y Garnedd (the Trinity f… 3 pitches
Not To Be Taken Away England > … > Stanage Edge > Plantation Bouldering V4 6B Boulder
Deliverance England > … > Stanage Edge > Plantation Bouldering V8 7B Boulder
North Face of Uxbridge Road England > S West > W London A0 R Aid
Little Chamonix England > … > Borrowdale Valley > Shepherds Crag 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
The Old Man of Stoer Scotland > N W Highlands > Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
A Dream of White Horses Wales > Anglesey > Gogarth 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Cemetery Gates Wales > … 1 > N Side > Dinas Cromlech 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Right Unconquerable England > … 1 > Unconquerables Area > Unconquerable Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Old Man of Hoy Scotland > Orkney Islands.. and the Old Man… 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Central Buttress. England > … > Wasdale > Scafell 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Chequers Buttress England > … > Froggatt Edge > Chequers Buttress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Flying Buttress Direct England > … 1 > Christmas Crack > Flying Buttress 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Fern Hill England > … > Cratcliffe Tor > Owl Gully 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Cenotaph Corner Wales > … 1 > N Side > Dinas Cromlech 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in United Kingdom »

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Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
farkas, I am also working on it but it's a slow process! I too prefer the mp format over ukc for route descriptions, but only if done well. I wouldn't want to see a proliferation of 2-line, uninspiring route descriptions! Sep 2, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
Mountain Project is generally not so great for UK climbing. I add almost every climb I do here, but if you're looking for a more nearly comprehensive list of climbs and areas, see ukclimbing.com. I prefer Mountain Project in layout, but it's just not all there. Develop! Sep 1, 2013
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
@Devilesslover: the reason they haven't (hadn't) been added is that people haven't got round to doing them yet. As you discovered, anybody can add a route, so all it takes is for a few people who climb regularly in the area to start logging on here after a day's climbing and adding the routes they did that day. As for the grades, I have raised the question on the forums, but for now just go with a conversion table. These are pretty good for going between French sport and YDS, but do break down a bit when it comes to British trad. To give a reliable YDS grade for a trad route, I suppose you have to be familiar with the grading system, and climb the route with that in mind. Oct 15, 2012
In responce to my previous question I now know why Portland hasn't been added... A) can not rate routes as they are sport routes which are rated mostly in Frrnch rating and B) it would take forever to get all these routes online! I added areas for Portland then sub areas for cheyne wears then further broke it down to the area/crag... Just to get one area on took ages... Tried to list a route and found that it doesn't have an option to change the rating system used.
Don't think this problem is easily solvable but good luck guys.
Tom. Sep 8, 2012
Fantastic idea, one question; Portland and Swanage are completely missed out... Sites of international importance for rock climbing (with more climbs that the list you've got for the whole of England already), will they be included in the near future? As an idea this app will only work if it's complete and updated regularly.
Thanks.
Tom. Sep 8, 2012
lm610
Nottingham
lm610   Nottingham
added new area review Stanage Popular and Stanage Plantation

gachieve.blogspot.com/ Jul 11, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
The "Classics" list is an automatically generated list that is added to parent area pages on MP. The list is created by selectively including routes that have been given classic (4 stars) status by the original poster. If you post up routes that you have done and give them 4 stars because you think they are a classic the route may well get included. Also note that this list changes day to day.

Glad you are enjoying the area. May 23, 2010
As an ex-pat I was delighted with the Description sections. "Perfick. Just perfick".
But the list of outstanding routes.... Well, of course anyone who has the temerity to put forward a short list is putting his/her head above the parapet. No harm in that; indeed, much welcomed. But no mention of something(s) on "Cloggy", or on the sea cliffs? There must be sound reasoning for this list, but I am unsure of the reasoning. (Great "One pitch Wonders", perhaps?)
What would Jim Perrin, say, list as his recommended Top Ten? If he strongly supported this list then I am pretty sure I would fall off my armchair laughing at myself! This is NOT a criticism, but a big curiosity. Thanks for the page. Climb on! May 23, 2010

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