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Routes in Shepherds Crag

Adam VS 5a T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ardus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bludgeon, E1 5b, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Catbells ...Hike T,S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a V-easy 3 WI1 C0 Easy Snow PG13
Conclusion E1 5b T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Derision Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eve VS 4c T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisher's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Another Expedition. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Chamonix T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prodigal Sons. . Combe Ghyll 5.11R . E3 6a. T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bently Beetham . May 1946
Page Views: 3,863 total · 36/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 11, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

Shepherds Crag has about 130 routes to choose from of all grades. It is about 100 yards from the road which adds to its popularity. Possibly due to its low grade and fine situations Little Chamonix could be the most climbed and photographed route in the Lake District. It has been climbed in roller skates and boxing gloves,and other stunts, such as one arm ,one leg etc.. .P1)Start up a corner with a short crack. Climb the crack left of the pedestal blocks.Move up into the groove the left over a flake mantleshelf to big ledge with belays5.4 90'P2) Up earth ledges to belay below a groove.40'P3)Climb the groove until the overhang is reached. Move across the table block then step across and up to the saddle belay.5.4 40'P4)Climb up steep flakes to a move right then move off the top of the flake to a fine finish and great views .

Location

See topo photo. One will usually find help to find the climbs ,as the crag is very popular

Protection

A small rack.
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.3
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.3
DO THIS CLIMB !

The most world-traveled climber I know called this "The greatest 5.2 in the world!"

We did one or two of the other 3 or 4 star routes that day (before the "rains came") and I can't even remember their names, but I still remember almost every move on this one! GREAT !

Hope you figure out how to do the 'crux' as a 5.2-5.3, rather than the "grunt way" as a 5.4-5.5 ! (Actually, if you do...it's no longer the crux !) Aug 18, 2017
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Grunt Way??? Aug 19, 2017

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