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Routes in Gogarth

A Dream of White Horses T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rift, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Drummond & Dave Pearce
Page Views: 4,960 total, 44/month
Shared By: Camilla on Aug 13, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Seasonal closure for bird nesting. Details

Description

Beautifully named and a true North Welsh classic - and not even in the mountains of Snowdonia. Made famous by a spectacular picture in one of the Royal Robbins Rockcraft books. If you're in Wales, do this route. Although if the waves are big the climb may be wet.

It takes a traversing line leftwards across the huge and exposed Wen Slab for a few pitches on good holds with the odd tricky bit here and there, then makes a spectacular traverse across the arch (or Zawn) and up onto the grass.

When I did way back when I used all nuts, but I'm sure cams will work too - the rock is good.

Location

Rap down the sea level, climb a steep groove to the horizontal line.

Protection

trad rack
kiff
 
kiff  
 
Got to climb this recently, mistakenly rapped a little low but this offered us the opportunity to climb pitch two of quartz icicle. This was an incredible way to climb this wall in two, vastly different pitches. I highly recommend more people make this mistake. Jul 3, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
Ok Nick I've changed the description - I didn't realize it was so sparse. Jun 27, 2014
When I did this I thought the climb was about the slab traverse. The last pitch was a shock and terrifying to look at because I just couldn't believe the climb went through that overhanging finish. Amazing jugs make it casual though. Nov 10, 2013
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
Brad, I haven't done the route so I can't say exactly what I'm looking for (if I could say exactly, I'd just write it!)... number of pitches and total length are already on there, but that's just objective details. I guess for a route with a reputation like this, I expect a description to inspire. A bit of evocative prose about the situation, some of the history perhaps? From what I've heard the climbing itself (as you say) isn't spectacular, but it does break through some very unlikely terrain. Maybe when I get round to climbing it I'll suggest something. Nov 5, 2013
Brad Warne
Calgary, Alberta
  5.8 PG13
Brad Warne   Calgary, Alberta
  5.8 PG13
Nick, what exactly are you looking for? Its been a couple years now but Im sure I could scrape together a description. Pitch length, # of pitches, gear and route description? IMHO, the climbing is good but not that good, you do this route for the enviroment that you are in and the naure of it, not for the technical climbing. Nov 4, 2013
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
I haven't done this route, but I know its status and I think I can comment on the description here. It's a must-do, super-classic, adventurous sea cliff route, picking an intricate and very committing line through some very intimidating ground... and all people see on here is "traverse route"? I've written more about 4-bolt sport routes than that! Please can somebody who has done it write something more evocative? This page just doesn't do it justice Oct 31, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
The usual warning is to carry prussik loops in case of a fall on the last pitch, as the rock below is undercut and the rock above overhanging. Oct 19, 2011
Brad Warne
Calgary, Alberta
  5.8 PG13
Brad Warne   Calgary, Alberta
  5.8 PG13
Before doing the route I thought it was getting more credit than it deserved. After doing it I think it cant get enough. The climbing isnt spectacular, but is interesting enough. You do this route for the atmosphere! Also, I would say this route isnt much harder than 5.7, but the positions are intimidating and incredable Oct 10, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Technically 5.8/9 but really cool situation, especially if the Horses are in. F/A Ed Drummond. Jan 7, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
IMHO there's no way this route is harder than 5.8 or HVS 4C, but it's been a looooong time since I've climbed it. Sep 19, 2008