Avg: 3.8 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Drummond & Dave Pearce|
|Page Views:||12,842 total · 70/month|
|Shared By:||Camilla on Aug 13, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron|
UK rating is HVS 4c. If you know how to read British ratings that will tell you all you need to know about the seriousness of this route.
Beautifully named and a true North Welsh classic - and not even in the mountains of Snowdonia. Made famous by a spectacular picture in one of the Royal Robbins Rockcraft books. If you're in Wales, do this route. Although if the waves are big the climb may be wet. The route is most likely typically wet in a few locations so expect damp rock.
Be sure to rap off the pronounced tooth of rock. You can establish your rap line to a block before it and is recommended so as to reduce your exposure to reaching this tooth. If you stay on an established and worn path to the tooth you are in the correct rap location.
It takes a traversing line leftwards across the huge and exposed Wen Slab for a few pitches on good holds with the odd tricky bit here and there, then makes a spectacular traverse across the arch (or Zawn) and up onto the grass.
When I did way back when I used all nuts, but I'm sure cams will work too - the rock is good.
Cams from Aliens to #3 BD work well. Small to medium hexes are useful for belays.