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Routes in Unconquerable Buttress

Curving Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Curving Buttress Corner T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Left Unconquerable T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Unconquerable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tom Probert
Page Views: 1,371 total, 12/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


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Description

Left Unconquerable, a steep layback flake, is a mega-classic of the Peak District. Great holds, great gear, and a fabulous setting make it a perennial favorite along with its equally classic (and slightly easier) brother, Right Unconquerable. Start at an obvious finger-width flake and lieback a move or two to a horizontal. Another move will get you to an excellent jug in the crack. With more difficulty, lieback the flake to another horizontal at 2/3 height. From here, a tricky sequence involving a high step and small but positive handholds will get you through the crux. Finish on jugs.

Note: Different guides rate this route differently. It is widely considered E1 5b (about 5.10b), but other sources say HVS 5a (about 5.9+). It felt to be easy 5.10 to me.

Location

To the right of the trees as you approach the plantation. Large, flat face with two diverging flakes. Anyone will be able to point the way.

Protection

Single set of nuts. Hexes are hard to place in some parts. Doubles of #.75 and #1 cams might help, but aren't essential.

Photos

funkyicemonkey
Colorado
 
funkyicemonkey   Colorado
 
Just keep going, the rest will just exhaust you! rockin' climb Nov 22, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10b
Pumpier with a distinct crux section in the middle. Not as good as the right, but still excellent. Aug 3, 2009