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Routes in Chequers Buttress

Brown's Eliminate T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Chequers Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chequers Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solomon's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stiff Cheese T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Victorian Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 43 ft
FA: John Gosling 1962
Page Views: 763 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Beckstrand on Dec 14, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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8 Opinions

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Description

Classic, British Grade HVS 5a. Follow a ramp up right, head left up through the face and then out further left to the arete. Big reach to a huge hold gets you out on the exposed corner where it's jugs all the way up: not being able to reach this hold made it a more delicate affair, but still not too bad. Top out and build an anchor amidst the grazing sheep.

Protection

Takes standard pro. The wire protecting the long reach out right is about as solid as could possibly be conceived. Huge nut. Good route for HVS leaders.

Photos

Leo Hski  
 
E1 5b back in the day FWIW. We spent a very warm 1982 Spring Bank Holiday weekend at Froggatt- climbing all day, pints in the Chequers, and then sleeping out right below the crag. Great memories! Mar 10, 2012
Brad Warne
Calgary, Alberta
  5.9- PG13
Brad Warne   Calgary, Alberta
  5.9- PG13
Definetly no harder than 5a!, if a Canadians opinion matters. Dec 3, 2011
This route is currently graded at HVS 5a (it's certainly never been 5c). I think the previous poster is confusing it with Chequers Crack nearby (a tough and somewhat notorious HVS 5c) Dec 2, 2011
Leo Hski  
 
I led this when it was E1- one of my first, so I'll still regard it as such! Mar 20, 2009